Rear Shock - Lower Mounting Point (Rotoflex GT6)

[sam93]

Hello All,

With reference to the attached pictures, is it possible to change the mounting bolt which secures the bottom of the shock. Or do I need to fit a replacement vertical link ?

As you can see, a previous owner has done one hell of a bodge ...

[Piero franchi]

I am in the middle of doing the very same thing

my advise is to take a good long look at the vertical link, if there are any other issues, asses the hole job.

that bolt is a mega pain to remove.

I have mine in soak for as long as I can be bothered, but well over a week.

I will then attempt to press it out, having a 30 tonne press to hand

if that fails, it will be a slow long heating followed by the press or a large hammer.

either way, cut the bolt back to a few mm short of the V link as it will only bend otherwise as you try and press it out.

ps the soak is in a bucket of diesel

[GT6 M]

If I were you, then tek the VL off, remove bearings, /grease and owt else that will burn.

Go to a spot wid a bigg press, make the braket end secure,
BUTT mek it so that the bolt can come oot that end.

then with alott of heat in the bolts housing area, heat up, whilst applying pressure

it will slowly start to move,
keep heat on, and press away, ye will prob need a bit of bar to push doon end further, as OE bolt
gets pushed in to VL

Note, any i took oot are only rusted in aboot an inch or less each end
hence lots of heat on thee,s areas.

can also doo above using a vice, if its bigg enuff
or, just heat up, and wak away with a BFH,
done this way, ye need to wak it doon, if it shifts, then wak it back

it will come in the end

good luk

M

[GT6 M]

ps the soak is in a bucket of diesel,

Im afraid to say this is as much good as a chocolate poker.

thinners / petrol, an a thin oil, ie ATF, 50/50 mix

this has been proved to be 5 times or moer better than  proper releasing fluid

NOT WD,
i found this on www.homadetools.com thought very interesting.

Homemade Penetrating Oil

For All of you Mechanic's and Self doer’s out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

This last “shop brew” of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.


BUTT, when pressing oot, ye just gotta keep the heat on.
its a must
press,n alone is no that good

M

[Nick Jones]

Agree with Marcus.

You may find sourcing another vertical link easier - though most have their own problems these days!

Nick

[Richard B]

Or it drill out with a big piller drill?

[Spider]

you could try electrolysis,

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I've used it in the past to great success even removing rusted in bolts and bleed nipples from calipers. Once you have seen the results you will be hunting around for rusty things to transform. Saves loads of money on rubbish chemicals which are expensive and not very effective in my opinion.

[Piero franchi]

I wonder how well automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone stays mixed!!!!!!????

I now to well the properties of oils thanks very much

I produce my own bio Diesel, and thats were My V link sits in the bucket full off.

Have you seen what that stuff does to fuel lines????

I am guessing not, its a MASSIVE probleme for Bio users

because we use metonol in its production, (and it never really gets fully removed in the wash process) the resulting bio has a fantastic ability to penatrate

it also has grate capillery carictoristics (at this stage, let me say soz for all the spelling mistakes before the spelling natzis get me)

I have spent many many hours watching oil seperate, winterise etc etc

I will do a test in my workshop today, I have aceton and transmission fluid,

would be good to see what happens

Ill let you all know,

NOT TO try and disprove anything as its not about scoring points, but it would be good to know yes

[GT6 M]

Was no aving a go at ye Piero, just stating any diesel I used in past was useless.
Butt, then we didnt have this Bio crap
I had a VL sit in deisel for over 2 weeks did nae budge, then a gall of Plus Gas,
still did nae budge, this was yonks  ago,  hence post its useless.

use it for a 1st degrease / wash off though, ok for that job.

the 50/50  stuff does work ok, med some up my self, it stays  as a solution for ages
dont seem to be much diff between  petrol / thinners
but wayyyy better than wd40 / pus gas/ olde type deisel

M

[Piero franchi]

No offence taken and none given,

its my style of writeing I am guessing

How do I add photos?????????

with bio diesel, the cooking of veg oil thickens it, or to be more precise it changes the molicule

when we add metenol and patasium hydroxcide (boy my spelling is bad lol) and heat mix it, we are braking the fatty chain,

the heavier part falls out through gravity, we are left with a thin light oil that can pass through our car filters.

the same kind of thing aplys to what we are doing,

we need a very thin oil and one with inherant capillery action if its got any hope of penertrating.

a good basic way to test how thin the oil is is to stick a small sample in the fridge,

the better our biodiesel reaction, the better it holds up to the cold.

I am at my unit, have Acetone in hand, my mixing vessel and NO TRANSMITION fluid !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

only need a 25 mill to do this text.

any one near mill hill ?????

[sam93]

Got a few additional questions about this,

1) Anyone got a part number for a replacement bolt ? Had a look on canleys, but it's not very clear.
2) Are there any special precautions I should take before dissembling the rotoflex joint ?
3) Will I need a hub puller to separate the hub from the vertical link ?

4) Any other useful tips ?

[GT6 M]

2880 wrote:

Got a few additional questions about this,

1) Anyone got a part number for a replacement bolt ? Had a look on canleys, but it's not very clear.

Ye can always get some bar, and put a thread on ya end.


2) Are there any special precautions I should take before dissembling the rotoflex joint ?

... DONT loose the shims.


3) Will I need a hub puller to separate the hub from the vertical link ?

Yes, it will be easier, but can be done with home made bar and bolts

4) Any other useful tips ?

Be wary of  damage,n the threads on end of outer shaft.
When putt,n the hub back on, try an nok / press the hub doon as much as possible.
dont be tempted to turn it doon with nut, may damage threads.

also, drill thru to bolt hole, tap a thread in, then you can put a blank,n plug in.
the blank,n plug is used to feed oil in noo an then to stop it rust,n in spot
{like it is noo  :-/ }

M