timireson Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 hihas anyone used this?Rotoflex Telescopic Damper Conversion Kit from moss?it seems like a good idea, coud then get the whole suspension build up before the body goes back on. is £109 each for koni adjusyable standard shocks a good price? struggling to find what i need, as no one seems to use the same part numbers. any help/guidance gratfuly received as im getting out of my depth now. t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timireson Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 heres a pic t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 The kit moves the damper's top mounting forward so it's centre is in line with the non-rotoflex mounting. This in turn is somewhat further forward than the lower mounting on the upright.I've no personal experience of these in use so I couldn't say how this affects the suspension in the real world.Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT64fun Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 Hi TimRefer bottom of page 6 on this Spitfire/GT6 forum, when this subject was last covered. Also referenced back to earlier posts on the same topic.You might also like to try using the search facility to see what else you can find.RegardsIan F ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 I've been using this kit for about 10 years on my GT6 with no issues. Some people don't like the way the shocks are tilted at an angle but I've found no issues with this in terms of handling. I recently replaced the mounting rubbers after 10 years as I had a squeak but it turned out not to be the rubber mounts so they didn't actually need replacing even after 10 years of use.Handling is good and no issues with bottoming out etc. Koni are definitely the best shocks in terms of longevity, they are expensive initially but compared with the likes of Spax, Gaz and Avo etc will outlast several times over. Only issue is they cant be adjusted in situ. Officially they have to be adjusted officially off the car (although I have managed to adjust with the top mounts left in situ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam93 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Is it possible to fit this conversion kit with the body on or not ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiggrr1 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Yes,but watch your fingers.......................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Yes remove the body mounting bolts and spacers/rubber pads at the rear and jack the body up slightly to give enough space to slide the brackets into place, I replaced the rubber pads when I fitted mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennygoodman Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 cook1e wrote:I've been using this kit for about 10 years on my GT6 with no issues. Some people don't like the way the shocks are tilted at an angle but I've found no issues with this in terms of handling. I recently replaced the mounting rubbers after 10 years as I had a squeak but it turned out not to be the rubber mounts so they didn't actually need replacing even after 10 years of use.Handling is good and no issues with bottoming out etc. Koni are definitely the best shocks in terms of longevity, they are expensive initially but compared with the likes of Spax, Gaz and Avo etc will outlast several times over. Only issue is they cant be adjusted in situ. Officially they have to be adjusted officially off the car (although I have managed to adjust with the top mounts left in situ). Cookie, I will shortly be fitting the rear shock absorbers to my rebuild but I still can't work out how they are going to fit, I have just measured the distance between the centres of the mounting brackets from top to bottom and it is 11 inches but the gap between the two mounts is much bigger than that.The shock absorbers that came with the car (but not fitted) are spax krypton adjustable.How the hell do you get the suspension to compress enough to fit these shock absorbers and if you do compress it does the shock obsorber stop the up and down travel as well as acting as an obsorber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 On a vehicle! The spring is the shock absorber!And the damper is the shock damper (most often and wrongly referred to as shock absorber) :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 you'll need to jack up the suspension against the tension of the rear leaf spring, also make sure you have the right shock absorbers and make sure you fully extend them, they will be stiff as you are pulling against the damping but should be possible to open them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Note that the dampers used with the chassis extension brackets are NOT the same as the dampers used with the original arch mounts. The arch-mount ones are longer and will be more or less fully compressed at normal ride height if fitted with the brackets.The brackets are normally used with the swing-axle length dampers - not sure this is completely ideal but it seems to work ok.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughbert Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 4058 wrote:On a vehicle! The spring is the shock absorber!And the damper is the shock damper (most often and wrongly referred to as shock absorber) :)So right there the damper is just that it dampens the action of the coil spring up front/rear but on our cars we have a transverse spring at the rear same theory though ;) ;) :)As Nick wrote if you use the correct brackets and dampers plus you may need to jack the rear of the car up to allow the whole suspension to droop down to take the load of the rear set up ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam93 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 When it comes to fitting these brackets, is it just the one bolt shown in the diagram at the top, or do you need to weld along each of the edges ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughbert Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 2880 wrote:When it comes to fitting these brackets, is it just the one bolt shown in the diagram at the top, or do you need to weld along each of the edges ?No welding need with this conversion as far as I know :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 but you need to cut a small part off the inner wheel arch if I am right...merry christmas everyone,cheersJens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiggrr1 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 As Hugh saysNo welding neededAlso as JensH saysA little carving of the inner wheel arch is needed too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam93 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Anyone got a clear picture of the so called "carving of the inner wheel arch" that is required ?Also merry Christmas all !!Sam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 You may need to cut/grind/file a bit of the seam as marked in red on the photo below. I had to do this on one side of my car but not the other such is the variance in Triumph bodywork! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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