josh18 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Hey all. Now I have found a Datsun LSD diff and axles to swap into my MK1, I started pulling the old diff and subframe out today. So far I have the axles, brakes, hubs, tail shaft and exhaust out of the way. I now just have the four bolts holding the rear sub frame in place to do, but I'll leave that for another day. Having the engine out made getting the rest of the exhaust and tail shaft out much easier.While the subframe is out I will drill the exhaust hole bigger and weld in a length of old tail shaft to allow for a bigger exhaust. Once it's all back in I plan to make up said new exhaust, this time with easy to release bolt on flanges between the sections- I have always hated how the standard slip on sections jam themselves on.I have read that the rear suspension mounts need strengthening for competition use. I'd be keen for some info and pics on what needs to be done and how to do it, and whether it's really necessary.Im really looking forward to this project, and reckon it will pose some challenges, but hopefully I have done enough research and planning to get it done well.CheersJosh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Is the last pic the Datsun shaft?? I was under the back end of my Mk1 this weekend and my shafts look nothing like that in terms of the fat end at the diff flange end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 Yeah that's a Datsun shaft, but off my car. They have roller bearings rather than just grease lubrication for the splines- no more twitch! Pretty good mod I reckon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Ah, so you already had Datsun drive shaft ends on Triumph inners?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 The hub half of the UJ and the diff flange are triumph, the rest is Datsun. It was done when I got it, but I think either the datsun or triumph yokes have to be bored out a bit to accept the UJ bearingsCheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Ah okay, I was wondering how the two halfs mated up, it had to be either at the UJ or the spline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 As far as I know it's a pretty common mod. Very worthwhile too. I doubt it's as good as CV shafts but for what you would pay for the Datsun shafts it's great value fir money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Maybe in your part of the world. Datsun's aren't that common in these parts!! My ex's Dad had a white 180B SSS mk1 in the 70s. Sadly he sent it to the crusher when it went rotten and before old Jap cars were cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Datsuns are indeed not common around here. I got my 280ZX shafts form San Diego, USA. Price including airmailing them over was less than what I would have paid for one halfshaft here!Mating them to the Triumph parts can be done by using (expensive) 'TriDat' hybrid UJ from Greg Tunstall in Brisbane. These have two sizes, one for the Datsun yoke and one for the Triumph yoke. Beware though, the Triumph side is for circlipped UJs. The staked type as used on a lot of Stags is smaller as the bearing cups have much thinner walls.You can always opt to machine either the circlipped or staked type to the Datsun size and use metric UJs. Probably the better choice.Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Datsuns may not be common now, but there was a time (before JJ's time but during mine) when they were relatively plentiful (compared to Stags) and not at all cool. That was when the halfshaft conversion was common. Scrap a Datsun to put its roller bearing shafts on a Stag... and improve both cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Having had the machining done on some axles I 'd suggest that the tridat conversions are more cost effective. I've also thought (done experimentally ) of redrilling a Triumph flange to take a Datsun u/j yoke on the other end . Need to make s bush to centralize things though. I made a plastic one. Think this will work but at this stage have gone no further. If it does work out ok would save a lot of machining and cost.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Wont fit a MkI rear end, Datsun driveshafts are too long.Chris Witor can have the machining done if anyone wants. Mark sold a pair of stripped Datsun driveshafts on our stand for £60 at Stoneleigh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 What is the difference in track each side? One inch? If the R160 diff is fitted, then it probably will fit or can be made to fit as the R160 is not as wide as the Triumph diff.Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Width is one thing Im a little concerned about on this conversion. The R160 is so much narrower than the Triumph diff I am hoping the half shafts will be long enough. I know the Subaru stubs can be modded like Julian has done but I am hoping to use the Datsun half shaft's stubs that slot straight into the diff. I'll just have to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 I got my diff today and it's awesome! it is set up really tight- at first I though it might be a welded centre. Thankfully it's not, and a look inside confirms it's one of the old and super rare Nismo clutched LSDs. And it seems to be in good condition to boot.Very happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 I got my diff today and it's awesome! it is set up really tight- at first I though it might be a welded centre. Thankfully it's not, and a look inside confirms it's one of the old and super rare Nismo clutched LSDs. And it seems to be in good condition to boot.Very happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
south sea pommie in aussie Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 Nang i have done exactly what you are talking about .Made the bush out of a new large flat washer ,re-drilled the flange and used datsun tail shaft bolts. Works a treat.Used the tridat unis on the outer axle Saves alot of money . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Here's some pics of the mock up so far.My fears that the axles would be too short came true- the diff is narrower than the Triumph one and it was close but the axles were just too short, especially seeing they need to lengthen with suspension travel. My axles seem to be a pretty rare kind (off a 180b I think), where the UJ yoke splines directly into the diff. Most Datsun axles seem to have a bolt on stub axle- these could allow me to have a spacer made up to get the length I needed. Seeing I didn't have those I decided to pull the axle apart and see if there was some way to extend it. So inside the spline has several ball bearings running in deep tracks, spaced out with little nylon blocks. By removing one of the nylon blocks from each set I was able to get another 10mm or so of extension. As far as I can see I haven't really introduced any weakness. I'll see how it goes on the car. I transferred the UJs and stub axles of the new axles onto my current axles so now it all bolts up just right.Next up is to work out how to mount the diff in the centre cradle. My plan at this stage is to do similar to what Encom has done with his R200, and cut the tube out of the quill shaft housing I have and weld in new metal.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 one more. I wish this forum would get with the times and allow a reasonable amount of uploads per post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Not too sure If I like your method of extending the length of the shafts. I suppose you can only try.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 "My axles seem to be a pretty rare kind (off a 180b I think), where the UJ yoke splines directly into the diff. Most Datsun axles seem to have a bolt on stub axle- these could allow me to have a spacer made up to get the length I needed."If the more common type of yoke will fit the spider you are using, would it not be better to swap this part only, so a spacer could be used?May be able to sell the one you have if they are rare.Or am I am missing something?Reducing the loading area and length of contact in the spline not ideal the way I think of things, but could be got away with. Not sure how long before things get out of alignment and vibrations start though.Mal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Josh - I probably have a set of the flange type ends driveshafts - I have about 15 sets of various types - let me have a look when I get home MondayI have no use for the flanges if I do have them so I'll just remove them from the axle UJ and send them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Yeah guys I dont think this way would be ideal but for the sake of ten mills I dont think it will hurt- they still feel rock solid in bending. But Andy I would love if you could send me up a set, as using them getting a spacer made (as you all say) would probably be better.I was really making do with what I had as I don't want to have to get too many parts made- all custom stuff seems to cost a fortune! I really need a lathe hey- I'd rather shell out and buy a tool and be able to use it forever rather than pay someone else to make something for me. Worked for my welder that's for sure!Here is a pic of what I believe I'm afterhttp://www.triumphexp.com/phile/8/47757/Datsun_Stub_1.jpgCheers, and thanks for all the help/ interest/ advice.Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Yep Josh, I would have used the same approach as you in your circumstances.The reason for my comment is that, not knowing you or your abilities, it was difficult to tell from the post whether or not you regarded this as a permanent solution.I now realise it was a "see how the whole set-up goes and keep an eye on things" approach.Sorry.Certainly not the first time I have found myself in this position when I have felt the poster may be helped by a warning in case he/she has not thought of the possibility and gets into trouble. Keep up the good work,Mal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Hi Josh, I know it's not much, and you may have a change from standard set up, but remember the brake back plates need to go in there. Only an extra mil each side or so (not sure how thick the back plates are...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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