Nick Jones Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 1903 wrote:You are a very bad person ;DRealist I'd say........ :P If he's very bad using Triumph parts I must the antichrist ;DNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Nick_Jones wrote:Realist I'd say........ :P If he's very bad using Triumph parts I must the antichrist ;DNickAhh but I have a Morris Garages Metro alternator and oil cooler, a Ford CAS wheel and coil, a Fiat CAS sensor, Vauxhall injectors. Rover SDI fuel rail, Honda TPS and CTS. MAN truck wheel speed sensor, Citroen brake discs, Montego and Rover 800 wheel studs Morris Garages Montego and Maestro wheels and a Bedford CF clutch.Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Nick_Jones wrote:Realist I'd say........ :P If he's very bad using Triumph parts I must the antichrist ;DNickBad in the sense that he's giving me more thoughts/ideas/work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Gt6s wrote:Montego and Rover 800 wheel studs LaurenceWhat's the difference or attraction there? I'm using Ford studs which apparently are "group-n spec". What that means in reality I don't know, but they proved chuffing hard when machined down to the correct length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Gt6s wrote:Ahh but I have a Morris Garages Metro alternator and oil cooler, a Ford CAS wheel and coil, a Fiat CAS sensor, Vauxhall injectors. Rover SDI fuel rail, Honda TPS and CTS. MAN truck wheel speed sensor, Citroen brake discs, Montego and Rover 800 wheel studs Morris Garages Montego and Maestro wheels and a Bedford CF clutch.LaurenceAnd an Isuzu sarter motor... ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 TR7th_Heaven wrote: Yes MikeyB, that's why I went to him. His reputation was good and Canley Classics recommended him as well. I'm hugely disappointed because the gearbox is so bad it ruins the car, it really does. I could almost cry. I paid a lot for the recon (£460) and whilst I didn't expect a totally silent gearbox I expected it to be better than the old one was. It's very noisy in the first 3 gears, there's also a high pitch squeeling at over 55mph and a vibration at over 45mph which I can only guess is the gearbox as well. Gutted.I've no wish to tarnish anyone's reputation but I don't want anyone to waste their money like I have.Rich :( i've never had cause to use his services but have you contacted him about the matter?i agree with everyone else in that i have only heard good results,perhaps you were just unlucky and got the 0.1% :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 TR7th_Heaven wrote: His reputation was good and Canley Classics recommended him as well. :( Have you gone back to Mick and asked him to sort it? I'm sure he would be very keen to put any problems right if asked. He has a good reputation because when/if things do go wrong he puts them right unlike others.We face a problem when being asked for recommendations about others services as you can imagine. We get asked all the time about paint sprayers, but I would flatly refuse to recommend anyone based on the odd bad experiance of those I have sent to outfits that have otherwise done excellent work. Consistant excellent work, done for reasonable money is a very rare thing. Since we took time out from building/supplying gearboxs ourselves a couple of years ago (because I'm to busy building diffs, and engines!) it appears that the number of those able, and willing to do a decent job with small chassis Triumph gearboxs has shrunk alarmingly.Put simply any amounts of decent rebuildable core left sitting on the shelves of reconditioners disappeared about five years ago, and generally what is left is 2nd, 3rd, and sometimes 4th generation rebuilt tat. When contemplating buying a rebuilt gearbox make the effort to go along to your chosen supplier and ask him to show you his core stock that he is going to be working with. If its not shelves, upon shelves, upon shelves of stuff walk away. A couple of dozen scabby boxs in a stillage, and a shed with a bench full of worn out mainshafts, inputs, and speed gears is more than likely going to end in tears.We guard our core stocks, one day they are going to prove very usefull! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Slimboyfat wrote:We guard our core stocks, one day they are going to prove very usefull!When I was short of space some years ago, and not quite knowing what was what, I took most of my (tiny compared to Mr Slim) stash of non-overdrive boxes to Stafford to sell.(those were the days when people gave cars away, and they invariably had 1 or even 2 spare gearboxes thrown in the boot for good measure)Mr Papworth wheeled most of it away within minutes.I now guard my stash very carefully as well...... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 thescrapman wrote:When I was short of space some years ago, and not quite knowing what was what, I took most of my (tiny compared to Mr Slim) One small corner of a half decent gearbox core stock room..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted January 10, 2013 Author Share Posted January 10, 2013 DaveI'm planning on popping over to see you next week to get your opinion I should have the back off my diff by then, so I'll need your help there too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Slimboyfat wrote:One small corner of a half decent gearbox core stock room.....How much did you have to throw away to get that much re-usable stuff??Or has it been there 30-odd years so dates from when there was lots of good core??CheersColinp.s. makes my 3 rusty lay shaft clusters and a few worn out synchro rings look pathetic.. :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 a few other pointers, the chamfer on the gear dog teeth and sliding sleeve and the baulk ring has to be a well defined flat chamfer its directly responsible for the baulking loads on ' rock over' when synchronising, worn and chimbled teeth will allow the synchro to let gohalfway thro' a gear change and you get the clashing of teeth, its certainly not just the baulk ring.when making up a 4 synch box for the vit6 the slave box was a nightmare.I tried using a cased needle roller in the stem gear to resolve damage to the bore from a mainshaft that had the tip cut off, bored out and a new tip slugged in place which was loose in the end the cased needles lasted 3k and failed which again wrecked the new mainshaft tip. due to in adequate lube getting to the needles.having run out of core I succumbed to MP and we fitted a 18mm tip shaft and modified stem, the box internals werealready fine , its quiet and works as well as ever , bear in mind these boxes are getting harder to recon can be very expensive very quickly, and any core out there has run well beyond its design life, you could go the TR7 or ford type 9 route as they are more bullet proof.here's a ueful link to Type 9 http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&id=62545&catid=218 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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