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Engine and Gearbox Refit


Anthony

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I'm getting close to finishing the suspension rebuild, and have started thinking about refitting the engine and gearbox

Is is best/easiest to fit them both together? (already built-up as one unit) Or should I fit the gearbox first, and then install the engine afterwards?

I've got the necessary engine lift and leveller to make the job easier, but, I've just fitted some gas rams to the bonnet and they were so powerful I'd rather leave the bonnet on if possible so I don't have to struggle fitting them again

I'd like to avoid scratching things, so want the know the best way to go about the refit

Thanks

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think you could find it a  struggle to fit the unit with the bonnet on, , and agree trying to align engine with installed gearbox is a right faf .  

so would recomend bonnet off and slide the whole assy in ,

  if you do it with bonnet on put a board across the windscreen ,  and tilt to a high angle to travel across the car and attempt to get the gearbox under the baulkhead


could be fun  

Pete

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Quoted from Pete Lewis
think you could find it a  struggle to fit the unit with the bonnet on, , and agree trying to align engine with installed gearbox is a right faf .  

so would recomend bonnet off and slide the whole assy in ,

  if you do it with bonnet on put a board across the windscreen ,  and tilt to a high angle to travel across the car and attempt to get the gearbox under the baulkhead


could be fun  

Pete



Ok, Engine and Gearbox together
The windscreen is currently out of the car, and I have a leveller on my engine lift, so tilting them at some crazy angles shouldn't be much of an issue

I'm just worried that if I keep removing and refitting things I'm more likely to scratch something. Then again, swinging an engine and gearbox around a bonnet might well lead to things being scratched 😲





Quoted from timbancroft61
Got to agree with Marcus and Pete, its a piece of cake fitting engine/gearbox together.

Now you have fitted the gas struts to the bonnet once the next time will be easier as you have worked out the procedure.

Good luck.

Cannot wait to see this car done.



So you noticed I've stopped posting pictures 😉
I stopped adding pictures when it came back from the paint shop. I couldn't decide whether to add some photo updates, or do the reveal when it's finished.

There's still quite a way to go, and a lack of any spare time is a huge limiting factor for me. I don't think I'll make it to the Stafford show or the RBRR this year. I'll probably miss Stafford the following year too, so my first proper outing might well be the 10CR  



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Quoted from Anthony

There's still quite a way to go, and a lack of any spare time is a huge limiting factor for me. I don't think I'll make it to the Stafford show or the RBRR this year. I'll probably miss Stafford the following year too, so my first proper outing might well be the 10CR  


You might have a long wait for a Triumph show at Stafford....

They stopped 3 years ago.

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I'd say the easiest is to remove the bonnet and hoof it all in from the front, and I'm sure the faff of fitting gas struts will be a LOT less than the faff of trying to get a big engine and box in between the bonnet and bulkhead. I did it once on my Herald 13/60, and it was a huge pain in the arse with the bonnet on, even with a four pot and non-overdrive gearbox.

In terms of a helper, if you need a hand, give me a shout as I'm just down the road.

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Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo
......In terms of a helper, if you need a hand, give me a shout as I'm just down the road.



I may just do that. It might be a little while now though. I haven't built the engine yet and was hoping everyone was going to say, just throw then engine and gearbox in separately. But as everyone's saying fit them as a complete unit I'll have to get on and build this engine 😎

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Quoted from Anthony



I may just do that. It might be a little while now though. I haven't built the engine yet and was hoping everyone was going to say, just throw then engine and gearbox in separately. But as everyone's saying fit them as a complete unit I'll have to get on and build this engine 😎


On a four pot it's easy to throw it together bit by bit. I never needed to use a clutch alignment tool either. With the bigger gearbox I'd be tempted to do it as a combined unit! You will need to bonnet off or you'll bang the unit into something as your trying to avoid it banging into something else.

Andy's axle stand tip is a good one as well. With everything stable life is easier. Same goes for removal of a four-pot lump if removing it by hand and rope. Those chassis come up a surprising amount as the weight comes off. Takes you a moment whilst holding in your farmers to realise what's happening.

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Quoted from ferny


On a four pot it's easy to throw it together bit by bit. I never needed to use a clutch alignment tool either. With the bigger gearbox I'd be tempted to do it as a combined unit! You will need to bonnet off or you'll bang the unit into something as your trying to avoid it banging into something else.

Andy's axle stand tip is a good one as well. With everything stable life is easier. Same goes for removal of a four-pot lump if removing it by hand and rope. Those chassis come up a surprising amount as the weight comes off. Takes you a moment whilst holding in your farmers to realise what's happening.


I think the wheel off idea depends upon the type of engine crane you are using, can you get the forward projecting legs under the arb and wishbones? I tend to move the car onto the engine, as I have found the movement of the engine swinging on a rope can unsettle the unit and possibly cause damage. Uneven floors, say tamped concrete finishes can make the movement of an engine crane awkward. All trial and error.

Remember the six cylinder engine and (esepcially) overdrive gearbox are heavy, so take care and used good condition rope, sling it a few times!

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If the bonnet already off, as marcus says, no brainer - engine and gearbox in one.  SO much easier fitting them together on the bench.

But if the bonnet is on the, then taking off, replacing it and getting all the fiddly adjustments right is a pain.    It IS possible to remove engine and gearbox in one, with the bonnet sill on, IF you can raise the engine high enough and IF you have a 'leveller'.
Below is the sequence I use to hoick them out of SofS, and replace.   Note the covered windscreen!   Nowadays, I put a layer of bubble wrap under doubled floor cloths, having broken one windscreen (which was cracked anyway!)

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