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Hello ,

I have found today that the nut from the bolt that's holding the rear trunnion is missing!  ??)

I'm currently restoring the suspension a bit ..
I think that the bushes are need for replacing , but how to do it ?
I'm already orderd a kit from ebay

Kind regards Wim

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Wim - it's time to invest in a workshop manual, or perhaps a Haynes as a second best.
Searching here on the message board is your friend, too. I remember a thread "Listing" not too long ago which I put a picture in, and I'm quite sure we've had several threads on the subject in recent years.
Be prepared to have to saw things to get them apart, requiring more replacement than just with a kit. These things can get pretty solid.  :-/
The swearing is fun though.  :)

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smithy wrote:
Wim - it's time to invest in a workshop manual, or perhaps a Haynes as a second best.
Searching here on the message board is your friend, too. I remember a thread "Listing" not too long ago which I put a picture in, and I'm quite sure we've had several threads on the subject in recent years.
Be prepared to have to saw things to get them apart, requiring more replacement than just with a kit. These things can get pretty solid.  :-/
The swearing is fun though.  :)


thanks for the reply smithy  ;)

I have a haynes manual , but it's at my car now .. and that's not at my home  :B
So i will check it tomorrow,
I recently replaced the front trunnion and the bolt was stuck in the spacer .. so angle grinder ..  ;D
Just to get some new bolts here in belgium is a little pain  :-/

Kind regards Wim

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No space for the angle grinder at the back, Wim, I had to use a saw. SUCH fun!
If you get the full kit then new bolts should be in it. And never mind - Belgium is lovely and clean and the trains are always right on time!  ;)

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3182 wrote:
I'm going to Tervuren on Monday-Thursday next week for work, should I bring trunnion bolts for you? Not sure how close you are in Belgium but I have two complete rear trunnion kits in front of me that could join me across the channel :)


i'm in dendermonde, 52km from tervuren .. so :-/

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If the trunnion has never been changed,then it will be stuck for sure
Wheel off
Hand brake disconnected
Remove brake back plate with hydraulic s still attached
Remove shocker from vertical links
Remove radius arm from vertical links
Remove spring from vertical link
Now remove half shaft from diff and pull the whole assembly to the floor
Try and hammer(with heavy club hammer) the bolt through the trunnion
If seized then cut the bolt in between the housing and vertical link
Then when the housing is free in your hand you have to get the remains of the bolt out
The only way is hammering it through or a 5 tonne press with plenty of release agent

When reassembling.........plenty of coppergrease
Then the reverse order as above

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What VR says above, but being pernickety (sorry VR....)

Use bearing grease (Castrol LM, etc) on the top hat bushes and outside of the tube, and copper grease on the bolt and inside of the tube. Only a minor point but coppergrease is an anti-seize agent and not really for lubrication.

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sparky_spit wrote:
What VR says above, but being pernickety (sorry VR....)

Use bearing grease (Castrol LM, etc) on the top hat bushes and outside of the tube, and copper grease on the bolt and inside of the tube. Only a minor point but coppergrease is an anti-seize agent and not really for lubrication.


What he says.....but up in`t North we use rendered down pig fat aswell ;D

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3182 wrote:
Isn't removing backplate a very big operation requiring a hub puller? When I did mine I removed the brake-line where the flexible pipe attaches but left everything else attached to the half-shaft.


The job can be done with flange and back plate on
However it is easier handling with them off.....especially if you have to take a sledge hammer to it..... ??)

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Word of caution. This job is fairly easy If you can safely get the vehicle up high it will make your life a lot easier . Be wary of jacks and axle stands as you will need to exert quite a lot of sideways force to loosen some of the parts. Please make sure that you keep a check on the diff oil level when its all done for a couple of hundred miles as it is easy to damage the Diff oil seals when you remove or replace the driveshafts.  

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darrenspitty wrote:
Word of caution. This job is fairly easy If you can safely get the vehicle up high it will make your life a lot easier . Be wary of jacks and axle stands as you will need to exert quite a lot of sideways force to loosen some of the parts. Please make sure that you keep a check on the diff oil level when its all done for a couple of hundred miles as it is easy to damage the Diff oil seals when you remove or replace the driveshafts.  


?? I think you have the wrong end of the stick.....
We are talking of trunnions and half shaft removal..

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On the grease front, I am not certain what Velocita Rosso means you to use copperslip on, I would be happy to use it on the nuts and bolts to make it easier to dismantle if you ever need to, but not on the internals!

Bit of a bug bear for me, I hate it when I see people using copperslip on items that take heat, like cylinder head studs etc, cause copperslip thickens with heat, which can make it harder to remove the nuts/bolts later on. Copperslip on non-heat threads, and molyslip (molybdenum) for high heat situations.

Anyway, that is that little rant over, sorry for hijacking :)

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