Nilfisken Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi,after having rebuilt the whole front suspension it is time to give some attention to the rear. The car has the typical syndrome of slightly jammed movements and likes to stay low down for a while if two people have been sitting in the car so I think the trunnions are the main offenders. I have tried to search on the forum but cant find all the answers I'm after so I post yet another thread. Maybe we should make an effort to compile something similar to the guide for front trunnions that were produced by Phil(?) after the last long thread of snapped front trunnions? I plan to deal with the trunnions this weekend if weather permits, I'm still a driveway mechanic but looking for a new house with garage before the winter...Before starting with the questions I let you know what tools I have available, let me know if I miss something obvious:One trunnion kit with bolts and nylocs bought from Chic-Doig. There seem to be a lot of postings of inferior kits with plastic bushes that brakes and metal sleeves that are to long from a few years back, is it still a big issue?I have an angle grinder ready, a small hacksaw that should reach in narrow areas and that has proven itself strong enough to go through the bolts at the front and I have a grease gun for greasing the assembly after installation. Also have a pretty powerful blowtorch but not sure if that is recommended given all the grease and bearings inside the assembly? Apart from this a pile of standard tools is available.OK, on to the two more specific question:1) Am I right in assuming that if the car is jacked up and placed on stands under the chassis rails in a way that the rear wheels are fully of the ground and clearly tuck in under the car that there shouldn't be any tension left in the spring so that if I actually succeed in getting the trunnions out I hopefully shouldn't have more than the weight of the drive axle and brake parts to fight against?2) Is it usually the centre bolt and nut that are the big offenders or is it also common that the bushing seizes fully in the vertical link? Any good ideas how to get them out without damaging the vertical links?I am pretty sure there will be a few more questions later this weekend...Cheers,Oskar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Blighter Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 1. Thats right - i would also have a scissor jack or trolley jack to support brake/drive shaft assemnbly so as not to damage brakes and stop it fallingg on your toes. Also disconnect the handbrake cable from the drums as will give you more movement and keep it out of the way. 2. Centre bolt corrodes into the sleeve so you cant get it out, you may need to cut carefully in the gap between vertical link and hub.Are you going to change spring eye bushes at other end of vertical link as well - mine was seized here (bolt siezed into sleeve again) - if yours is the same then changing trunnions wont make much difference.Lastly use copper grease on all the bolts etc. on re-assembly not ordinary grease.Have fun :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 ..radius arm has to be disconnected to allow trunnion bolt to come out...you may find that the trunnion bolt is seized(if perviously not greased) then it would be prudent to remove the whole assemby ,half shaft and all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt6878e Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 one thing you need is a REALLY big hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nilfisken Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hmm, why do I always get scared about the trunnions after reading stuff like this ;) I think I will first try to see if the bolts come loose by themselves and then check if the centre bolt is stuck. So far all the suspension bolts except one have come out without using drills and saws so maybe I will be lucky? If it comes off by itself I can just back off and have another go later on if the centre bolt/sleeve is stuck. I'm somewhat reluctant to saw the bolt off since I really would hate to have the car up on jacks for a long time now when the weather is reasonable and since I don't have a garage to keep it in. It's on a private driveway but still don't like having it off the wheels at that place.Spring eye bolts also sound like a good idea but I guess they must be much easier to work on with the spring out of the car? I plan a complete frame rebuild and fully new suspension/brake setup this winter so I don't want to do more than necessary to get the car fairly enjoyable/safe for this summer.Cheers,Oskar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Elsie Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi.. I have a related trunnion question.I've just spoken to the garage who provided the MOT certificate for the car I've just bought. They advised that they re-greased the trunnions and were happy to then provide an MOT. Is this sufficient to pass an MOT if had failed in the first instance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 3815 wrote:Hi.. I have a related trunnion question.I've just spoken to the garage who provided the MOT certificate for the car I've just bought. They advised that they re-greased the trunnions and were happy to then provide an MOT. Is this sufficient to pass an MOT if had failed in the first instance.Yes and no.The addition of grease, as that is what they will have incorrectly used, will have taken up some of the play between the vertical link and teh trunnion.It is a sign that you will need to do something at some point as there is wear in the brass trunnionIt should have gearbox oil in it.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Elsie Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi ColinWhen you say at some point, is it something I should consider as one of the first things to do. Want to enjoy the car for a bit but if this is something that really needs fixing I'd rather get it done straight away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 You really want to get the front trunnions sorted as you could end up with a snapped vertical link.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Take off the brass trunnions,use a compressed air blow gun and blow out/remove the grease. See if there is an amount of play ,if so replace asap.Then use EP 90 to fill and keep topped up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Also look for any signs of rusting around the top of the threaded section at the bottom of the vertical link.Good news is (and this is easily spotted from all teh pictures) is that if you do get a failure, it will virtually always be at a low speed, roundabouts, t-junctions etc.There is loads and loads in the archives about it.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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