robche Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hi allSo - failed MOT on worn trunnion bushes. Bought some new trunnions and bush kits but need some advice please. I thought I may as well replace the trunnion, inspect the upright etc while I was there. I'm new to Triumphs...1) Do I really need to remove the whole hub assembly to remove the trunnion?2) Manual says zinc grease for assembly, any alternatives? (I don't have it and neither does local motor factor)Any advice appreciated!Rob(PS: I did a search of the tech section for 'trunnion' and it brought back no results... that can't right?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 You`re talking rear?If everything is free well greased the bushes/pins can be removed in situIf the bolt is well in/seized the the whole assembly would be better off and on a bench, but the bearing housing can be left on the shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 No, sorry on the front ('64 1200 Herald). It looks like they'd have enough room to spin off? Guess I'm missing something 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Never, ever use grease on a small chassis Triumph front trunnion. It should be filled with EP90 gear oil and nothing else.Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Thanks Mark - yes, I know the trunnion/upright joint has EP90 but I wondered what grease (if any) people use to assemble the nylon bushes and dust shields on the wishbone link?Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hmm, trying to remember....... Copperslip perhaps? Its 30 odd years since I did that job......Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Yes, copperslop is good, or graphite grease. You really want something waterproof that offers good lubrication and anti-seize properties to stop it happening again. For this, Copperslop is the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 That's what I thought. Great stuff!Do I need to remove the hub to get it off or will it spin with the hub attached?CheersRob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Hi Rob, there is a 'white' grease that is water proof. Most other greases will allow moisture in including 'copperslop' (I like that name)If the front hub assembly hasn't been apart for quite some time it may well be worth the extra work to take it all apart and see what else needs doing.It really isn't that much extra work. Having said that I have A TR not a Herald.Again not being familiar with the herald if it is like the TR - inspect the bottom of the vertical link that fits into the TRunion for corrosion. If it is corroded/pitted it would need changingRoger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Thanks Roger - I have a front end rebuild planned but trying to get the trunnion changed for the MOT.I'll just strip it down, I may as well get it sorted properly!I have found some white zinc grease on Amazon but I'm sure any water repellant grease will be fine. As you say, it's more of a barrier than a lubricant that's needed.Cheers all!Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Quoted from Hogie 'copperslop' (I like that name)Roger You heard it here first!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Quoted from Hogie 'copperslop' (I like that name)Roger I tend to call it "that shit in the tin, why hasn't it finished yet, pile of crap, throw loads on and it'll empty one day"slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Rob - to answer your question, to unscrew the trunnion you have to take the hub/brake disc assembly off first; there's not enough room to allow the trunnion to turn through 360deg otherwise.Quickest job if you are in a hurry is to remove the brake caliper, wheel hub centre dust cap, split pin, castellated nut, pull off the hub/disc while holding the outer bearing in place within the hub with your thumb and place hub and disc on a clean surface. Pull back the disc shield a bit (or take it off) and unscrew trunnion. Reverse the process to put it back together, making sure you torque things up properly and adjust the wheel bearing correctly.The better way to do it is as described by others, checking and renewing/adjusting things properly as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Missed this reply - much appreciated sparky_spitAny tips on 'adjust the wheel bearing correctly' - What's involved there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Tighten the castellated nut up tight. Back off until you just have a tiny amount of rock. It needs to be tiny. When the wheel is fitted it still wants to be tiny (mm or 2 at the tyre edge).I have found with new bearings a recheck is best after a short drive, and being paranoid, again after another drive out or 2. Sometimes they need tightening up a touch, sometimes not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Quoted from cliftyhanger Tighten the castellated nut up tight. Back off until you just have a tiny amount of rock. It needs to be tiny. When the wheel is fitted it still wants to be tiny (mm or 2 at the tyre edge).I have found with new bearings a recheck is best after a short drive, and being paranoid, again after another drive out or 2. Sometimes they need tightening up a touch, sometimes not. Great, thanks. That sounds doable - as tight as it will go without binding then or should there be a bit of rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 There should be a very tiny bit of rock. I think the workshop manual says to tighten to a (fairly low) torque then back off a flat or two. Essentially I usually do them up "finger tight" (about at tight as I can go with just the socket, no bar), at which point the hub will be a little reluctant to turn, then back off one flat plus or minus enough to get the split pin through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 To clarify, I basically overtighten the bearing to make sure it is seated right down, then back off as Rob says. Do not tighten up with a long bar etc and you will probably damage something. I use a 3/8 ratchet. usually, but have a "feel" for things. Usually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Cheers guys - sounds sensible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Well - I did this job today (the dismantling part anyway) and all went well.Looks like they were just about ready for doing too ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Mangled this in the process though... How the hell are they meant to come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npanne Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Quoted from robche Mangled this in the process though... How the hell are they meant to come off? I put a small wood screw in the hole - I can't remember know whether I tightened it so that it pushed against the end of the stub axle, or whether I just used it to grip the cap and pulled it with mole grips (it was a while ago now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 I have brazed a 1/4" nut on the end. Screw a bolt through to get cap off. Fitted a short bolt on replacement to keep the dirt out.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robche Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Both good ideas! I'll do that when I get my replacements 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 According to the manual, you should screw a 'number ten' UNF setscrew into the hole in the cap and pull on that. It's supposed to be in the car's toolkit.....I have no idea what number ten means in UNF terms, these days it'll mean anything that fits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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