Howard81 Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Today I have been rebuilding the rear brakes on my 1970 Spitfire IV, but have come in to a problem...For the rear brakes, I have replaced the cylinders, adjusters and rubber hoses. The shoes look pretty new and cleaned up nicely.However, putting it all back together, I cannot get the rear drums to fit back on! It seems the rear shoes are too far out and I can't even force the drum on. The adjusters are wound right in. and everything seems to be set up okay.Any suggestions? I am really stuck on how to get them on. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 the adj should be un screwed , to let the to let the shoes take up less room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 disconnect the handbraake cable it could be set taut and thats holding the shoes openas said wind the adjuster fully out if the drum fits with the cable off , you wind the adjuster in hard to lock the drum then adjust the cable to just take the clevis pin without any tension, then you let the adjuster off to free the wheel does the cyl move in the back plate slide OK ??but thats asuming you get the drum on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 It could be that the shoes do not form a circle. Try knocking them left/right with the heel of your hand so that the cylinder moves in the back plate. Use the drum to check if they are more, or less, concentric.Don't force the drum on - you could damage the linings.Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 I think I've found the problem now... the "new" adjuster I used had a large casting blob that stopped the piston winding in about 2-3mm. Hopefully that will solve the issue... will try again tomorrow!Typical new part quality :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Howard81 wrote:I think I've found the problem now... the "new" adjuster I used had a large casting blob that stopped the piston winding in about 2-3mm....Typical new part quality :-/How bad was the old adjuster? I've saved dozens of these by heating with a propane torch until they can be turned, then disassemble, clean, lubricate and reassemble! I've heard others tell of the "repro" versions of these NOT being very good, but the original Girlings are fine with just that bit of care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 herald948 wrote:How bad was the old adjuster? I've saved dozens of these by heating with a propane torch until they can be turned, then disassemble, clean, lubricate and reassemble! I've heard others tell of the "repro" versions of these NOT being very good, but the original Girlings are fine with just that bit of care.The pistons come out okay but the screw is well and truly seized... currently in my kitchen being fed doses of plus-gas to see if it will free up by the morning! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Fantastic! I just remembered my gas-powered soldering iron had a "blowtorch" attachment. Result? One freed-up brake adjuster ;D ;D 8)Thanks for the tip! Will be as good as new once I've cleaned it up and re-greased :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 I put the rebuilt adjuster on today and the drum fits over perfectly. I haven't tightened the shoes up yet as I plan to bleed the brakes first.However, the other side is being a right PITA... I can't get the old hose off - at the bracket that joins the rubber hose to the metal pipe the nut will not come loose! Heat, penetrating fluid or brute force won't budge it (just bends the bracket). Think I'll have to grind it off.One thing though, on the passenger-side, the flexi line goes directly into the wheel cylinder. On the driver-side, the flexi pipe goes to a bracket on the backplate, then a solid line in a C-shape clockwise round to the cylinder. Are they meant to be different each side? This extra pipe doesn't appear in any of my manuals, but there is a special bracket for it on the back plate (which snapped off :o ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 On getting the nut loose on the brake hose, keep trying the heat and penetrating fluid, and see if you can't also round up a good flare-nut wrench for a better grip.As to the differing styles of brake lines to wheel cylinders, there's a pretty good chance you've got two different length axle assemblies on the car! Also many bits are interchangeable, originally where the hose goes directly to the cylinder is the "short" axle assembly, while the one with the extra bracket and hard line is the "long" axle assembly. "Long" is, of course, appropriate for 1973 and later models, while the rest used the "short" assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 herald948 wrote:As to the differing styles of brake lines to wheel cylinders, there's a pretty good chance you've got two different length axle assemblies on the car! Also many bits are interchangeable, originally where the hose goes directly to the cylinder is the "short" axle assembly, while the one with the extra bracket and hard line is the "long" axle assembly. "Long" is, of course, appropriate for 1973 and later models, while the rest used the "short" assembly.Thanks for the explanation! Actually it wouldn't surprise me if the axles were mis-matched each side as my car was wearing a 1975 N-registration for around 20 years. Many previous owners have assumed it was a 1500 - especially as it also had a 1500 engine! After hours or detective work, I've managed to get the DVLA to re-issue the original J-plate.Can I simply disguard the extra pipe and run the brake pipe directly into the cylinder? It would help a lot as the bracket on the back-plate snapped off...Also, is there any way to check the axles are both the "short" ones without taking them out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Howard81 wrote:Also, is there any way to check the axles are both the "short" ones without taking them out?Tape measure?From flange to back-plate. I'm sure someone could provide some comparisons... :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Howard, Richard's suggestion of a tape measure is fine, and all you really need to know is that both axles are the same length. If you have different axles, one side will be 1" (25mm) longer than the other. So there won't be much trouble finding out if they match or not. Good luck, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard81 Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 Pretty obvious really ;DI'll get measuring, hopefully I'll be back on the car next week to fit the new front discs, calipers and pads! Fingers crossed they actually go on trouble-free... :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Howard81 wrote:Can I simply disguard the extra pipe and run the brake pipe directly into the cylinder? It would help a lot as the bracket on the back-plate snapped off...IF that proves to be the 1" longer axle, I suspect it might be a problem to do what you propose. I'd be concerned about possibly stretching the hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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