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Spax fitting advice


npanne

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Today I plan to start putting the front suspension back together, and I have a question to anyone who has fitted Spax adjustables.

Should I mount them with the adjustment screw facing upwards (towards the upright) or downwards?

I had just assumed that it would be upwards, but it suddenly occured to me that maybe this would make adjusting them awkward due to the proximity of the vertical link - would it be better to mount them the other way round so that they can be accessed from underneath?

Neil

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It's the same with AVO's. Last time this question came up the conclusion was that people on here have them both ways and it dosent really matter which way round. I have my AVO's with the adjusters at the top and the room for adjustment is a bit tight but still fine. Probably not really an issue with spax as they have a smaller screw adjuster whilst the AVO's have a bigger knob on the side.

So basically its whichever way round you think is best...  :)

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Very on topic for me this.

I have, this weekend, fitted 2 Spax adjustables to the rear and one to the front of my Spitfire (the other front one will need to wait until next weekend).

I've fitted them with the adjuster facing upwards towards the uprights.   Drove it with just the rears on yesterday and was able to reach in and adjust them without any issues ...

Fronts are easy too.

I'm gonna regularly apply some spraygrease or similar to avoid the adjuster siezing.

Got the rears set on "11 clicks" at present ..... what do others have their Spax's set at on Spitfires?

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Well I never got as far as fitting the shocks today - I fell at the first hurdle, namely  bolting on the turrets. For some reason my new turrets (sourced from a MkIII GT6 don't line up quite right - I just about got the four side bolts in, but the top bolt hole was about 0.5 - 1mm away from the captive thread in the chassis.

Is there anyt reason not to file / drill the bolt hole to oval it out a bit, just to make the bolt fit? Or am I going to end up ruining a perfectly good turret by doing that?

Is it just me that struggles with so-called "bolt-on" parts? :)

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Ha! It's not just you with bolt-on parts. "Variety" as someone nearly said once, "is the spice of parts".
If things fit first time it leaves me feeling very suspicious!

You don't say if you've torqued the four "horizontal" bolts up before trying the fit of the "vertical" one. Have you? Is there no "wiggle" room with the first four loose? Would torque-ing them up help? :-/
Second thing, is the chassis nice and clean under the turret (yes of course it is) and are the mating surfaces of the turret also in good order? (I'm sure they are).
I can't remember any issues swapping my turrets (twice - don't ask), but I'm sure they must have needed some jiggling.
It doesn't surprise me that you've found some variety, or a small twist in the things or whatever, leaving it 1 mm away. That's nothing. Is it 1mm for-and aft or is it 1 mm away from the centre of the car, JFI?
I think I'd use a large 4lb ball-pane micro-adjusting hammer first, if the above fail, then drill if necessary.
Larger washer, no problem.  :)

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smithy wrote:
Ha! It's not just you with bolt-on parts. "Variety" as someone nearly said once, "is the spice of parts".
If things fit first time it leaves me feeling very suspicious!

You don't say if you've torqued the four "horizontal" bolts up before trying the fit of the "vertical" one. Have you? Is there no "wiggle" room with the first four loose? Would torque-ing them up help? :-/
Second thing, is the chassis nice and clean under the turret (yes of course it is) and are the mating surfaces of the turret also in good order? (I'm sure they are).
I can't remember any issues swapping my turrets (twice - don't ask), but I'm sure they must have needed some jiggling.
It doesn't surprise me that you've found some variety, or a small twist in the things or whatever, leaving it 1 mm away. That's nothing. Is it 1mm for-and aft or is it 1 mm away from the centre of the car, JFI?
I think I'd use a large 4lb ball-pane micro-adjusting hammer first, if the above fail, then drill if necessary.
Larger washer, no problem.  :)



Cheers smithy.

Chassis is clean, and freshly painted. Bolts are loose, and jigging has been tried (which removed a dissapointing amount of new paint from both chassis and turret).

I think I'll try lengthening the hole a little - hopefully that should sort it.

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Doug,  bet ye got them on the ..lowest setting.. :-/

unless they have changed the damping , beware of the ..dreaded pull doon.. :-/ :-/,  with soft springs

the adjusters  tend to stick easily,  so either constant ..fiddlin.., or oil will stop it,

but some kind of rubber cap, and tape will stop it

good luk

Marcus

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796 wrote:

unless they have changed the damping , beware of the ..dreaded pull doon.. :-/ :-/,  with soft springs


My back spring wasn't as soft as it looked when u saw it on La Carrera.  Turned oot that the front bolts atop the diff were under tightened.  Tightened em up and lost a load of the excessive positive camber.

Pete - thanks for those Triumph Tune figs.  I'll give it a try on those settings at the weekend and take it from there.

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I fitted air dampers so just flick switch for more or less presure/ firm or bouncy ride to suit road, so stiffen right up to stop bottoming out on bumpy roads at speed, and low and smoth for comfy town and open roads, dident like spax as had to keep changing em to match were or what I was doing.

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Doug, still think they are far toooo stiff,

I had some, and took em off, totally useless on a  GT, so dont think they be much use on a Spitty

the ones I had, maybe Ok on a Herald /Vit, with more weight/passengers, but no for me

Even the  Avos, on noo, are on   0, somtimes   1, !!!

and I got a lot stiffer spring than most

as i said, unless the .. valveing.. has been changed,

keep us posted if ye will  please, curious to no,

ohh , did nae no it was ye, ,  some pikkys on the way,  ;) ;)

regards Marcus

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Will do Marcus.

Drove the car Saturday with just the rears on and it was hugely better than with my old shocks .... very noticeably better.  And did about 100 miles on Saturday.

On the soft end of the setting the Spax's don't appear stiffer than the standard shocks .... so they're maybe not as stiff as what you've experienced in past.

So they are definitely staying on the back - much better ride and handling than I was getting (my old ones were ..... old though)

The fronts will be ready for this Saturday (work permitting).  Will let you know how they're doing once I've been out to play.

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bobyspit wrote:
but very rarely bottoms out on the exhaust at the rear (going over some bumps or really uneven road surfaces!



Since I fitted that big Pheonix Box at the back of my car I bottom out now and again too ..... can see the noisy TSSC pipes going back on at some point - but I'm loving the extra lowdown grunt and smooth noise I'm getting with the pheonix.

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