shenderson Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 If the timing is only moving +-2 degrees or so, it's probably caused by a bit of wear in the distibuter rather than the pulley. It might be worth putting paint marks on the pulley hub and the outer ring, which will show any movement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 On 16/07/2024 at 12:17, shenderson said: If the timing is only moving +-2 degrees or so, it's probably caused by a bit of wear in the distibuter rather than the pulley. It might be worth putting paint marks on the pulley hub and the outer ring, which will show any movement. Thanks. I'll put marks Do you know if the pulley and distributor are same on the TR6? If it's only wear on distributor, is it worth buying 123ignition one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenderson Posted July 18 Share Posted July 18 I think the TR6 distributor is different, and I don't know about the pulley. If the engine is running OK and not causing problems when driving, then this in itself hardly justifies the expense of a 123 distributor. However there are other advantages to having electronic ignition; it depends what you want to use the car for and how much money you are prepared to spend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 19 Author Share Posted July 19 15 hours ago, shenderson said: I think the TR6 distributor is different, and I don't know about the pulley. If the engine is running OK and not causing problems when driving, then this in itself hardly justifies the expense of a 123 distributor. However there are other advantages to having electronic ignition; it depends what you want to use the car for and how much money you are prepared to spend. The car is not running so bad. And i already installed electronic ignition. When i come back home, I'll put a mark on the pulley and order a distributor (mine has wear on the outer ring causing the distributor disengage) The only thing causing me trouble is cyl2 dark sparkk plug. I double checked all valves gaps last week and didn't make much road to make sure this issue is still there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenderson Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 The dark spark plug is probably caused by over-fueling, which indicates a leaking injector. You can check by removing the injector from the throttle body and pointing the nozzle into a glass jar. Disconnect the ignition and get an assistant to turn the engine on the starter motor. Fuel should squirt from the injector in a fine, conical spray, with no drips or dribbles. The two most likely causes are contamination in the injector or a leaking outlet seal in the metering unit. Blowing compressed air through the injector should clear any contamination, but don't use too much pressure. Changing the outlet seal is a bit more complicated, but I would try clearing the injector first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 25 Author Share Posted July 25 On 23/07/2024 at 10:30, shenderson said: The dark spark plug is probably caused by over-fueling, which indicates a leaking injector. You can check by removing the injector from the throttle body and pointing the nozzle into a glass jar. Disconnect the ignition and get an assistant to turn the engine on the starter motor. Fuel should squirt from the injector in a fine, conical spray, with no drips or dribbles. The two most likely causes are contamination in the injector or a leaking outlet seal in the metering unit. Blowing compressed air through the injector should clear any contamination, but don't use too much pressure. Changing the outlet seal is a bit more complicated, but I would try clearing the injector first. Since, all injectors new. I guess i have to drive more to see if any change. But I've just ordered a new crank pulley... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 25 Author Share Posted July 25 Processing the crankshaft pulley replacement. Thanks mates, it was time to look there as an front look showed nothing odd, but the hidden face is something 1st i had to make a bar to unscrew the main bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 (edited) I tried to change the front grill to look alike TC later version / STAG but not that much convinced. Full black PI genuine seems more sporty to me. So i'll go on with it : full black frontgrill + yellow beams. Edited July 27 by frenchiemk2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted Tuesday at 10:02 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 10:02 Well... Things going on one after another... I had a gap on the rotor arm and as the M.U needed expert maintenance, i sent it to a dedicated english oldies garage north France. 1st he tells me the M.U had been set on non original setting... Which i didn't know. Now i unplugged the shaft and there's gap on the lower gear which i believe occurs a play in the ingnition and maybe fuel distribution too. So I'll get the 2 new mecanindus pins to renew the shaft It's a long way to the top when you want to rock an roll... 20240903_113558.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted Tuesday at 11:56 Share Posted Tuesday at 11:56 frenchie, Sorry, I'm coming late to this thread! On your damper pullies: you show two, one original, one new? Is that the case? The rubber in the old one looks pretty perished which is no surprise. I have an engine rig with sensors that can document the state of a damper, and tell if it is still good or not. Glad to help if you would like me to test either. On the cog on the dizzy shaft, yes there is some play there, but it's under constant drive, so won't oscillate much. Electronic ignition is a good, cheap way to secure your timing. And on setting the MU: When Lucas Pi was brought out in the 2.5 Saloon and TR5, they were the first mass production cars with fuel injection. But Triumph, ever keen to save money, didn't invest as much as they might in training dealers workshop staff in the new technology. In many cases, they 'fiddled' with the M/u which has many more settings than a carburettor, and lost their way. Hence the reputation that Pi was "unreliable". It is most reliable, and needs almost zero adjustment, in contrast with carbs! But to correctly adjust the M/u, a special bench rig is needed, that the several PI specialists in the UK have. I've used Karl at Triumph Trader, but there are several others who can do this. May I suggest to you and your 'oldies garage' that they send the M/u to one of them for re-setting? Include details of the car and the state of tune. After that, best left alone! Bests John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted 16 hours ago Author Share Posted 16 hours ago Thanks to John i could measure the effective TDC with the tdc locator tool i bought 6 months ago and stored so well that i couldn't retrieve it for the last 3 days... Ok now there's a gap of 7-8 degrees that matches right the former TDC as the ignition timing at 7. That said, mean that my old worn damper had a static little wear (maybe worse at idle or rev). Just waiting my M.U back to put all that stuff in place and DRIVE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted 12 hours ago Share Posted 12 hours ago (edited) Frenchie, I don't understand, "there's a gap of 7-8 degrees that matches right the former TDC as the ignition timing at 7." Please explain? If True TDC is 7-8 degrees away from the marks, then the marks are incorrect! John Edited 12 hours ago by JohnD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted 9 hours ago Author Share Posted 9 hours ago i re checked my tool marks for TDC and i misread the mid distance. So the zero mark was and is still correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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