Carb issue?

[lavamatrix]

I was able to get the header out by unbolting the engine and then using a jack with a piece of wood between it and the bottom of the engine to lift it enough to pull the old header out.

Coincidentally I got my new header and exhaust in the mail today!

Now to go to work on that cut stem. Hopefully I can get it off and find a replacement locally, would hate to have to wait for such a basic part.

Oh and how thoroughly do you guys usually clean the area on the engine where the manifolds connect? Do you just use some carb cleaner to degrease the area and call it good?

[Nick Moore]

The old header has cracked where the steel's thinnest - on the outside of the bend - and probably hottest. When you fit the new one, make sure it has adequate clearance from the chassis side rail, so that it doesn't hit the chassis when the engine moves on the engine mounts. Come to think of it, you should look closely at the engine mounts too.

To clean the gasket face, I'd be tempted to stuff rags in the ports to collect any debris, and attack the surface with a scraper or wire brush. One of those wire brush attachments in an angle grinder would be perfect, but if you haven't used one before be very careful - it's the most dangerous tool in my garage (apart from me perhaps).

[lavamatrix]

Ive been using the wire brush attachment for taking paint off when doing body work. I am far from an expert but I am fairly comfortable with it. However I was worried using one on the engine for fear of creating tiny grooves on the surface and not having a good seal. I have the surface fairly clean, well it doesnt look clean but the surface is smooth to the touch other then a few problem spots. I am tempting to use the wheel but I want to research a bit before I do it.

The real issue is that damm stud that is seized and cut. Tried to use vice grips and lots of liquid wrench (penetrating oil) that had no success other then to damage the outside of the stud. I think I have to just break down and hire someone to come out and weld a nut to it and then crank it out. It worries me to do that though since the stud doesnt stick out very far and I am afraid the welder will damage the engine with his flame.

I know there are some other options but they all seem to require experience and special tools which I dont have. If anyone has any suggestions on a low tech method please let me know.

Thanks  ;)

[HMaze]

(evil)

http://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd#p/u/95/L5GveCj3Hck

Spitfire Stromberg, part1, 2, 3

Cheers,
Harry

[firebobby]

2258 wrote:

The real issue is that damm stud that is seized and cut. Tried to use vice grips and lots of liquid wrench (penetrating oil) that had no success other then to damage the outside of the stud. I think I have to just break down and hire someone to come out and weld a nut to it and then crank it out. It worries me to do that though since the stud doesnt stick out very far and I am afraid the welder will damage the engine with his flame.

I know there are some other options but they all seem to require experience and special tools which I dont have. If anyone has any suggestions on a low tech method please let me know.

Thanks  ;)

A MIG welder is better...no flame and the heat from the weld can help the stud to free off, also by welding a nut onto the end, you have much better leverage.