TedTaylor Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Dave I am sure that the problem is caused by the slave cylinder not being an original type, and have heard before of people needing to pack the cylinder like this but whether it was this much I do not remember.All the bits you mentioned were replaced when the engine was (re)built and fitted about 5000 miles ago but the point you make is noted and will be checked when I get round to dropping the box to check the thrust. Mind you everything seems to be working fine now so don't think I will disturb anything just yet ;DMUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Gertie has a series 3 landrover clutch slave cylinder,as does my car 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Hello Dave, the picture of the thrust bearing carrier shows it is scrap. Because the fork when operated goes up and down that slot, that indentation will affect the smooth action. The later carrier is a different design and doesn't wear like that, and is a much better design.I see no point in lubricating the fingers as the thrust is a bearing which takes all the friction.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 piman wrote:Hello Dave, 1) the picture of the thrust bearing carrier shows it is scrap. Because the fork when operated goes up and down that slot, that indentation will affect the smooth action. The later carrier is a different design and doesn't wear like that, and is a much better design.2) I see no point in lubricating the fingers as the thrust is a bearing which takes all the friction.AlecAlec,1) If you read my post with the pics I did say that I took it Dave Picton and asked him if it was scrap, he said it was unlikely to be the cause of my juddering pedal. I thought I was buggered but I put it back in after Daves comment and it havn't got another one !Dave gave me another preasure plate to replace mine as the finger ends were worn as seen in the pictures.2) I put some "cv" grease onto the end of the realese bearing and I put a smear onto the finger ends. I also put some lithium spray grease onto the "other end of the fingers" at the pivot point.That meant any part of the clutch that moves was lubricated.If you look at the pic of the worn finger ends if they were greased then they may not have worn.Iggy (Gavin) drilled a hole in his bell housing and greased up the face edge of the release bearing which would then transfer some of the grease to the clutch finger ends.It's been a few weeks now and my clutch is still nice and smooth.Shoulder it still just the same :-/But I'm not one to fuss about it :X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 1344 wrote:Gertie has a series 3 landrover clutch slave cylinder,as does my car 😉Interesting Dave. I have checked the receipts in the records that came with the car and find that it was from Chris Witor (alloy body 211061A 7/8" Bore), and further cross referencing shows it to be a 'Land Rover' Lockheed TKC 2786 On the Register Forum in 2012 John lee describes what he did to sort his clutch out and using apparently the same slave as I have he needed an inch of washers as spacers to get things right! Think I will contact him to find if he has done anything since.The other option to be checked is therefore the pushrod length but from the records it would appear to be an original one. Does anyone know what the length should be?Anyway everything works and the operating arm seems to be in the right position, so as it is OK at the moment I will leave it well alone until I get round to dropping the box.MUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Both Gertie and my car used the standard push rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 to me it sounds like cover is failing,springs go soft when warm or hot which then give you short pedal,have you tried a new clutch cover and not crap recon one..just a thought :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Hello Dave, Yes I did read your earlier comment, but I would not reuse that carrier were it my car, especially as the later design is superior.Yes the fingers wear but usually it is over a very long period of time unless there is a problem with the thrust bearing or possibly the carrier if it is not pushing true, I'm think of the wear in the slot which as you depress the clutch the fork will try and push it upwards as well as forward?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 AlecMy car was last had an mot 10 years ago so I have no idea on the history of the clutch ??)If I had the funds I would have replaced the lot when I opened it and found what I saw but for now I had to make do.Things are still all very smooth and nice at the moment despite the wear on the carrier :)Currently saving up for a new cam, followers and all the gaskets and bits to sort out my knackered cam or follower. After which a new clutch will get thrown in :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnconradlee Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Quote:On the Register Forum in 2012 John lee describes what he did to sort his clutch out and using apparently the same slave as I have he needed an inch of washers as spacers to get things right! Think I will contact him to find if he has done anything since.Hi Ted,Got your PM on the Register forum.On my clutch with the help of a friend to push the pedal down, I measured the distance between the piston and end of the slave cylinder with the pedal down and adjusted the spacers accordingly so that it ended up flush with the end. I think I ended up similar to you with a little over 1/2". I may have needed a couple more washers that you as I've got a cheap repro Landrover master to match my Landrover slave which may give me a smidge more travel.The clutch works really nicely, the best clutch I've had on a 2000. Doesn't look terribly pretty from below but if I run out of other jobs to do I might make a spacer but the bright shiny zinc plate on the washers is starting to tarnish and get covered in crud from the road so it's starting to blend in! 8)John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Hello John, unless I've misunderstood what you've done, wouldn't altering the length of the push rod do the same job and look neater?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnconradlee Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 That was the other idea I was toying with.Was considering making a threaded adjustable push rod as opposed to trying to rehash the original, or possibly buying one if anyone knows a source of a cheap one about the right size. Moss do one for a TR6 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=21782, but £40 + postage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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