Clutch fork pivot

[lancepar]

Right I’ve had a little search and it seems the clutch fork pivot pin can just about be replaced/mended with the gbox in the car.

The pedal bite has gone down a bit on my Spitty, so I thought I would replace the much overdue clutch fluid and replace the shifter bushes I’ve had for some time, while I’m there, just to see if overhauling the remote shift bushes etc will improve the failing 2nd gear synchro, I doubt it but if it don’t I’ll get the gbox out and sorted.

Anyway cardboard cover off and I notice the lower bush for the clutch fork pivot protruding out of its housing at an angle, which is not right. That’s as far as I’ve got and thought well the gbox will need to come out now anyway, but sleeping on it maybe I should see if the pin has gone AWOL and tap the bush back in and put the pin UCL2713 or something the correct diameter back in, don’t know what the correct dia’ is BTW and I don’t have an old valve either.
Back to the beginning.
Has anyone done this, care to explain for me, I don’t have access to a Vehicle Lift but have some ramps and trolley jacks, but I’m not a supple as I used to be?
Cheers
Lance
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[yorkshire_spam]

I found a metric bolt (freelander? Maybe off a defender) that had a shank about the right length, I cut the threaded part off and used that - the head was just the right size to stop the bolt dropping through, but not too big to make it look "odd".
You should be able to replace the pin with the tunnel out, no need for any further dis-assembly.
You might even be able to get to it down the back/OS of the engine.

[RobPearce]

When the pin fell out of Spike's gearbox (Toledo, same as Spitfire) at 50mph, I concluded that something with a bit of a head would be less likely to go the same way. I used a 5/16 UNF by 3" bolt, but that's very close to the same diameter as an M8 one.

[lancepar]

Yes, had another look this morning and it does look like there is access without gbox removal.

The bottom bush I pulled out like a baby tooth with my fingers and from the top it looks like there is a pin of sorts still in place.

I measured the inside dia of the bush and it was 5/16" like you say.  Both ends of the bush are suspect, the top looks broken off and the bottom bashed about like it has been hammered in badly. Might fit a stainless cap head  fixing instead if the OE pin, reason being the head will rotate without fouling anything and stop crap getting in the hole as well.

Off to the Triumph shop.

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[lancepar]

Got some new clutch pivot bushes 129358 and they are not plain but are like a "top hat", so I assume they are fitted from inside the bell housing Doh. Which means the one removed from my car has had the rim removed either from wear, has broken or has been crudely removed, I would imagine the later myself then hammered back in place.
So I'll have a play but I think gbox out, synchro fix, replace clutch parts etc etc will be the best bet.

My reversing lamps have never worked, only the switch is left to check, might even do that while I'm at it.

Plenty of time now I'm a free man - not a number(evil)

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[Mik]

Yes, the bushes fit from the inside with the clutch fork between them. Unfortunately that means you can't replace the bushes without removing the gearbox from the engine.

There should also be a "tolerance ring" which is a sort of crinkly metal thin walled tube that pushes into the hole in the clutch fork itself. That takes up the slack and grips the pin so the pin turns with the fork and rotates in the bushes (rather than being jammed in the bellhousing and rotating in the fork which wears the fork pivot).

The tolerance ring dissolves after many years and at the very least that leaves some lost motion in the clutch fork pivot which won't help if your clutch is marginal anyway. Lack of this part is also the reason the pin can fall out.

At least some of the replacement pivot pins come with a head on them these days too so they can't fall out downwards.

If you choose to use a bolt instead of a "proper" pin, do as "yorkshire_spam" said earlier and find one that has a long enough unthreaded part and cut off the thread. Using a threaded bolt just damages the clutch fork pivot (especially if the tolerance ring is missing as well!). I used a threaded bolt as a temporary fix once. Like all "temporary" fixes it ended up left in there for ages and ruined the clutch fork.

[thebrookster]

Chic Doig does an "uprated" pin for this that has a shoulder at the top to stop it dropping through, and whilst it has been a while since I had need to buy one the price was very reasonable.

Cheers,

Phil

[lancepar]

Right as there appears to be a pin still in place I have assumed it is being held by the Tolerance ring 129412, so I didn’t get one.
  
I’m going to get a couple of plain pin/bolts and from below put a new bush on one with the register down and see if I can push whatever is already in place out of the top.  Seat the bottom bush. Then as it looks like the top bush is still in place, from the top insert another new plain bolt with a bit of thread on the end to take a nyloc nut to tap back down an push out the bolt I used to snug in the bottom bearing. This bolt will have a nut fitted and tightened just enough to prevent the upside down bottom bush coming out. I’m assuming that the rim of the original bottom bush is still in place from what I can see from the bush I pulled out with my fingers.
I’m wondering if I should unclamp the slave cylinder before I start to allow a bit of movement in the clutch fork but I don’t think it is necessary.

I have a local supplier of virtually every fixing one can imagine and he is as cheap as chips, thanks anyway.

All this might be a waste of time, but it keeps me out of the house.
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