glang Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 No I should have explained better, camshaft is the rotating shaft that operates the valves and crankshaft moves the pistons.The two are separate items but both have journal (plain) bearings (crankshaft has two sorts: main and bigend (pin)) and all three types of bearings are different sizes. It looks as if you have read the size in the manual for the wrong one so that dimension of course doesnt match what you have measured. And yes one step at a time with main bearing next....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Just to butt in, as per my earlier comment I had a flickering oil light (no oil gauge) at hot idle two weeks ago. Today fitted a Mann filter (W713/14). Took car out for a run, parked up when it was hot: no flickering oil light. Turned tick-over down as low as it would go (a very uneven 400ish RPM): no flickering oil light! You could have knocked me down with a feather! When I get round to fitting the oil gauge I'll do a side-by-side comparison, and see how much pressure is being dropped by the cheap filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Interesting, what was the make of the original filter? And I take it that you just changed the filter and not the oil as well? For the comparison test rather than installing an expensive permanent gauge you could do as I did and fit a much cheaper ebay jobbie temporarily screwed directly in place of the oil pressure switch. Its something that I'll do from time to time just to keep an eye out for any changes....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I'll have to get back to you on that, didn't note the make. Pretty sure I got it in pack of 3 from Rimmers though. Yes good point, I could easily have plumbed in the gauge temporarily. I'll see if I get time tomorrow, it would be good to have some scientific data! Didn't change oil no, i've barely started running-in bottom end so it's keeping the cheap Halfords 20/50 for another 400 miles then i'll put some decent oil in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 Quoted from PeteStupps- Just to butt in, as per my earlier comment I had a flickering oil light (no oil gauge) at hot idle two weeks ago. Today fitted a Mann filter (W713/14). Took car out for a run, parked up when it was hot: no flickering oil light. Turned tick-over down as low as it would go (a very uneven 400ish RPM): no flickering oil light! You could have knocked me down with a feather! When I get round to fitting the oil gauge I'll do a side-by-side comparison, and see how much pressure is being dropped by the cheap filter. That is very reassuring... I have to wait and see but will report when the filter is fitted and new oil put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 I'm afraid I have to retract my earlier comment, unfortunately! Drove car 40 miles today, finishing with heavy traffic in a hot city centre. I let the car idle at its lowest RPM (500, not 400 as I said yesterday). After a minute or 2 the oil light began blinking again! So the Mann filter has not eradicated the issue. Tried to get my oil pressure gauge connected but instead my spanner rounded off the pressure switch, so I couldn't remove it. Perhaps some better-quality oil will help, and perhaps i won't leave it idling at 500 rpm again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Sorry to hear that Pete but it is a very low idle, I would have thought at least 800 would be more suitable. It looks like the only difference now between my engine overhaul and yours was that I put in new bigger oil pump..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 Firstly to clear up the matter of the conrod bearing measurment. The numbers from the manual I quoted before were for the camshaft not the crankshaft. I got my shafts muddled up. 😳 The manual does quotes "Connecting rods:big end Bearing int dia 41,30 mm und 41,32 mm" Now here are the pics of the Central main bearing shell which to me, seems not much different in terms of wear than could be observed for the big end shells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 And here is the backside which has "STD" printed again, so I assume the crank has not been reground and th ebearing shell is the normal one. ...maybe not the original though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 Wait! I saw a significant scratch near the oil hole which photographs quite well. I do not think it is a good idea to replace this shell, or??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 That main bearing is showing some wear - note the change of colour about 1/3 of the way along from the left in the first photo and the distinct parallel lines in the third. If you can get hold of good quality bearings I'd be tempted to replace them while it's apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 In my opinion it's a false economy to reuse those shells. Particularly, if you have poor oil pressure, replacing the shells can only help - you already have the sump off. The ones you've removed definitely aren't original as they are a different material and manufacturer (AE/Glacier Bi-metal instead of Vandervell Tri-metal). If you do replace, King/County Tri-metal might be worth the extra £10 or so. Oil pressure depends on the restriction to the flow, the crank plays a significant role in this. If there is excessive clearance between the journals and bearing shell, there is less restriction so oil pressure is lower. I don't see how removing sludge from the sump is going to improve things much (some sludge is more or less expected at this age). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 I have already got bearing on order from Rimmers but suspect they are not the better quality. Am now in the process of squeezing the other half out and, as suggested will replace them when the new bits come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Whats the plan now Antonia - replace all main and big end bearings or just mains? Unfortunately the mains are a little more complicated because of the front one being covered by an aluminium sealing block which has to be removed and needs care to succesfully seal afterwards. With the bearings themselves, unless youre going to do a lot of miles, I wouldnt get too hung up on which type you use as long as they are a known make/supplier. If you look on line the cheaper bi-metal ones do actually offer some advantages...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 That is good to know about the bi-metal ones.....and I do not do miles but km The plan is now modified slightly and is to await the delivery, should be Thursday this week and replace the two rear main bearing shells. The Big end ones I will just store for the time being. The front bearing , as suggested I will leave alone. The rear one I notice has three bolts - I will look in the manual to see why. Hopefully on Thursday I can put it all back together. The oil pump is incidentally quite difficult to prime. Not sure what to do here, perhaps just start the engine when the time comes and at low revs keep an eye on the gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Three bolts on the rear main bearing? Oil pumps shouldn't be hard to prime but they need a decent spin. When I've had engines completely apart or stood for a long time, so everything is dry, I sometimes pop the distributor drive gear out (the whole distributor pedestal has to come off first!) and spin the pump with a reversible drill. It needs to spin anti-clockwise, so it must be a reversible drill. A suitably cannibalised bolt makes a fairly good spinner - although the 4-cyl and 6-cyl need different gender tools as I recall. That said, it's probably overkill to do that and causes grief because you have to re-establish the base ignition timing. Fill the sump, take all the plugs out and spin the engine on the starter with no load until the oil light goes out. That will get oil to everywhere it needs to be before you refit the plugs and start it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 hmmm its quite unusual to change just some of the bearings and not all at the same time. Theres nothing to stop you doing it and if you dont do many kilometers😉 hopefully it should be quite a while before the remaining ones need changing.... Put plenty of oil on the bearing surfaces on reassembly and then follow Robs recommendations and itll prevent any damage when you first start the engine especially as youre only replacing like for like and not using oversize bearings on a re-ground crank. Can you take a picture of that mysterious 3 bolt bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 Quoted from Nick Jones- Also, the centre and rear main bearings are reasonably easy to change with the engine in the car, but the front one means disturbing the bridge plate and it's gasket with the front plate - very hard to seal effectively afterwards. Therefore, unless the other two bearings are really worn I tend to leave the front one alone as it is the least loaded and usually the least worn. Change the thrust washers on the rear main at the same time. Nick This is what Nick wrote earlier and is the reasoning behind my intention to only do the rear two main bearings. Picture of the rear bearing will I make tomorrow. Gute Nacht! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 Just finished with the bearings and thrust washers. These thrust washers did confuse me. They fit, I see now, either side of the end bearing. One dropped out as I was fitting a new bearing schell and there seems to be a frontside and a back side. I managed to get the other one out mainly to observe which way around it was fitted. There is a cut out on one side. Anyway it is in now with new standard thrust washers and no play in the crank movement. The bag they came in says "made in India" - does not inspire confidence. Below is a pic of the completed work before putting back the sump cover. <ou can see on the right side the "third" bolt which is actually a part of the casting. The red dots are from my nail varnish I used to mark what went where - wish I had done the same thing to the oil pump. The oil pump does not have a mesh fitted. 😲 Does it look to be in the right position? Nearly forgot - the bearing schells are from Kings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 ok with the thrusts I seem to remember that its quite easy to get mixed up and install them the wrong way round. Obviously the thrust faces (the sides with the cut outs) go against the rotating faces of the crankshaft. The pump looks to be the original one and its location looks correct to me - I thought they only go in one way but maybe an expert will be along to confirm that...... Glad the 'third bolt' issue is resolved and the bearing shells are from a recognised manufacturer so now its just a case of double and treble checking everything before replacing the sump. For example I take it the crank rotates smoothly and easily by hand?😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 I think the oil pump will only fit in one way as well, or at least it would be obvious if it was wrong. Neither of my engines had a mesh / strainer on the oil pick-up either, I don't think it was standard until later engines. (That's just a guess!) India has plenty of experience building engines and parts, I wouldn't worry about that! After all, Jaguars are Indian... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 I don't know about Heralds but on the Vitesse, the early engines had a mesh "panel" across the deep part of the sump, with a hole for the oil pump pickup to pass through. That was replaced by the mesh ball on the end of the oil pump for later engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Heralds have the mesh sheet, or should have - at least, the early ones have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Bit worried now. Oil filter and oil put in. Also new spring on pressure relief valve. Have taken out the spark plugs and turned the motor over by the starter waiting for the green light to go out. Done this several times and the green light is as bright as ever. 🙁 How long should the motor turn over before a bit of pressure will build up? Do not the installed plugs help with oil pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Dont worry, I think its a bit optimistic to hope that the oil pump can generate enough pressure turning on the starter motor to extinguish the warning light. I know that some engines might do this but usually after a complete rebuild with new everything! Mine doesnt and if you install the plugs it will turn over even slower and reduce the oil pressure further. So now you have to go for the big one, you done everything correctly and oiled the bearings so it'll all be ok during the time it takes to build up sufficient pressure during the start. Unfortunately this might take a few nervous seconds so try to minimise the amount of choke so the engine revs are kept as low as possible - good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.