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Electronic ignition..


WIMPUS

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uksnatcher wrote:
The pickup ring you put on the dizzy shaft has to be perfectly in line with the sensor, mine fired on two at first...! i used a rubber 'o' ring for the perfect position and to stop it slipping down the shaft when warm.
My old points etc have been in the boot since fitting 3.5 years ago. ;)

Also i added some heat paste Artic silver 3, the same as used on a CPU on a home computer between the cpu and the heat sink on the sensor to the dizzy plate as recommended by Britpart as they are heat sensitive.
( yours is exactly the same as the Britpart unit BTW just marketed as more expensive)
one thing to note is the wires can catch the rotor arm or dizzy cam, make sure its well clear, looks like you have that sorted


I've secured the wires to that old wire that was in the dizzy already ;)

Just been out for a testdrive and noticed when i came home the idle was around 1200 rpm!
So adjusted that again, will check the timing next week when i got a timing light ;)

Could that just be because of the electronic ignition or is that because of the timing that it was running 200 rpm more then normal ?

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4526 wrote:


I've secured the wires to that old wire that was in the dizzy already ;)

Just been out for a testdrive and noticed when i came home the idle was around 1200 rpm!
So adjusted that again, will check the timing next week when i got a timing light ;)

Could that just be because of the electronic ignition or is that because of the timing that it was running 200 rpm more then normal ?


It's likely to be because the ignition is now running slightly more advanced than before.  You will see for sure when you check the timing with your new timing light.  Running more advance is not necessarily a bad thing; it will give you better performance as long as it is not too advanced.  Just make sure it does not pink too much when under load (4th gear, 30mph uphill, foot fully on throttle pedal). Using 98 or 99 RON fuel allows you to run with more advance than 95 RON fuel. If it pinks too much, just retard a bit and try again. Repeat until you are happy with it.

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This afternoon i needed to help another british leyland in need...
And when i was driving to there i needed to have the choke up all the way (car was already warm).
Then drove together with my friend around the city & co..
When i was at a stoplight i noticed that my revs where very hi at idle, choke off.. still 1200 rpm  :-/

When we where back at his garage, i put the points back in  :-/  :B
Needed to adjust the idle again and when i was home it was again a bit higher then normal  :-/

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Marcus,

I like the look of that Accuspark blackbox stealth system.

Seems like a cheaper alternative to 123 programmeable. 123 advantage is that one can use Bosch components : rotor arm and cap etc. However the cost of 123 is higher, one cannot doubt the quality though. Suppose if going for the A'spark system, one should use a newly rebuilt Lucas dizzy.

Thanks for the heads up.

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Tim, others intrested in the Accy  Stealth.
Although its a programable,n, its not quite the same as the mega /omex,or others as to calibration.
on most programable,ns, the changes to timing can be med by using the + - buttons to alter the figures.

so driving along, fingers on buttons 20 degs need to go to 22, then all ye dee is press +, and the figures go up in .1 of a deg till the figs there, follow.
BUTTT, on the stealth, ye actually got to type in the  figure we have fun oot.
so if actually driving, and ye wanna go frae 20 to 22, then ye gotta clear the box, and re type in 22 , then apply.,  bit of a faff, but still way better than ole springs and weights..

Also got 2 nok sensors fitted to engine, and rigged up thru ear phones, so Mikes hard hearing can detect nok
better than the MK 1 lug ole can

M

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7801 wrote:


Very interested to hear your feedback on this Brendan as i currently have a 123Tune unit which i'll hopefully get to install around Spring time. Did you get your rev counter converted or switch it to an aftermarket one for the electric feed?
Would also be interested to know what curve you are using and find works.  cheers

John



Hi John,
Sorry for delay in replying. Busy week! I had JDO instruments convert my spare rev counter specifically for the 123 ignition. It runs off a wire from the coil.
As for the curve, I got one for the late Mk3 from a query on this forum. (see below).
I don't think I've got the vacuum advance set properly as it won't run with that connected at present. So more work needed to sort that...
Regards
Brendan
----
MK3 to Engine no KE10000
Distr. Delco Remy D200 795 3681

centrifugal adv.
rpm- deg (both crank)
400- 0
1600- 7-11
2400-14-18
3200-16-21
4400-20-24 max

Vacuum adv.
InHg-deg (crank)
2-0°
4-0°-4°
8-6°-10°
13-14°-18°
20-14°-18°

from engine no KE10001 on
distr. Delco Remy D204 799 2127

centrifugal adv
rpm-deg (both crank)
800-0
1200-0.8-4.8
2000-12-16
3000-14-18
4000-16-20
5000-18-22
5600-22

vacuum adv
inHg-deg (crank)
3-0°
5-1°-5°
7-7°-11°
8-10°-14°
20-14°

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Now that it seems that all carb trouble is fixed on my car, i'm going to install the electronic ignition kit on my spitfire next week  :)
If the weather is a bit good, going to try to do it on monday  ;)
And got a timing light & co so i can set everything up right.

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4526 wrote:
Now that it seems that all carb trouble is fixed on my car, i'm going to install the electronic ignition kit on my spitfire next week  :)
If the weather is a bit good, going to try to do it on monday  ;)
And got a timing light & co so i can set everything up right.


Wim, what was the solution to the carb problem in the end ?
Tony.

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If you decide on the ignitor ignition buy the pertronix version from retro rockets in the USA. Pertronix is the manufacturer and Aldon ignitor is a uk version that is supplied by pertronix. The pertronix version was about half the price including shipping from the usa and when it arrived it had come in the post from thier uk warehouse in Camberley surrey bout 5 miles away from me!!

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nang wrote:


Wim, what was the solution to the carb problem in the end ?
Tony.


Well it was using a lot of fuel from the start..
Thinking that it where the waxstats, so removed them..
But still not good!  :-/
Then remembered that you need other needles and springs when you are using another exhaust and K&N's..
So changed the needles and springs  and that worked very well !
Pull's very good, is using not that much fuel, no flooding (what was the first problem i had)..
Still not put in the electronic ignition in .. Will do that in a few weeks i think  ;)

Yesterday drove it for the first time on the motorway and she did it great at around 70mph  :P

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