Jump to content

Vitesse crank shaft end float


daver clasper

Recommended Posts

Hi every one

Does anyone know the best way of assessing thrust washer wear on the crank (without taking the sump off).

Just pressing the clutch  (engine running/not running) or pushing the crankshaft back to rearmost position and measuring between the timing cover and pulley, then pressing clutch and re measuring.

What would be the best, or are there other ways?.

Also does the wear take place when operating clutch, eg not a good idea to push clutch in when starting engine.

Any advice much appriciated.

Cheers, Dave



Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does depend on the car, but you shouldn't be able to move the crank back and forward in the block by any discernable amount really, slight movement is likely, but not much. The issue is actually sometimes getting a hold of the crank pulley!

I never use the clutch when starting - I see no point in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thrust washer wear is certainly exacerbated by people who press the clutch down while starting. The oil has not yet circulated and the washers are run dry so this is absolutely the worst time to put pressure on them.

The whole thing about using the clutch while starting - supposedly (according to its proponents) because it removes the drag of the gearbox - is ridiculous. The gearbox, even when cold, is a trivial amount of drag compared to cold compression on a good engine. If your battery is that bad then it's time to replace it.

Actually, the reason it's suggested is because US legislation required it at some point - the "stick shift" equivalent of the starter inhibitor on the PRNDL lever. If the starter motor can only be actuated with the clutch down then the car can't lurch forward unexpectedly. Of course, if you've not noticed that it's in gear and you've developed the habit of pressing the clutch to get the starter, then when you take your foot off after it's running you get an even bigger surprise...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of the modern manuals have that too. Run out Freelander's had an inhibitor switch on the clutch pedal, and I imagine that others have too. The annoying thing is when you have a manual, with inhibitor switch and stop-start. Then you have to ride the clutch and the brake in order to start the car. When you want to make a swift get away from a set of lights or on an island, it can cause... issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Almost all modern cars won't start unless you have the clutch pressed down. I always took is as a "safety device".
If your car has stop-start then press the button to turn it off. It will have one. Last I checked they said it took around 20 seconds worth of fuel to start a diesel so if you're stopped for less time it wastes it. All about cutting that pollution in cities with lots of start-stop traffic... I always turned that shite off except when I was bored because then it became a competition to see whether or not I could get it in gear and try to pull away before the car started. It wasn't a hard challenge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from RobPearce
Actually, the reason it's suggested is because US legislation required it at some point - the "stick shift" equivalent of the starter inhibitor on the PRNDL lever. If the starter motor can only be actuated with the clutch down then the car can't lurch forward unexpectedly


Why did'nt they make the switch(s) check that the manual gearstick was in neutral? 🤔

Less wear on the engine then...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from Richard B
Why did'nt they make the switch(s) check that the manual gearstick was in neutral? 🤔

Less wear on the engine then...


Indeed. And it addresses my other issue with the clutch pedal, too. It's clearly the Right Solution but when has that ever been a significant consideration?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from daver clasper
Hi every one

Does anyone know the best way of assessing thrust washer wear on the crank (without taking the sump off).

Just pressing the clutch  (engine running/not running) or pushing the crankshaft back to rearmost position and measuring between the timing cover and pulley, then pressing clutch and re measuring.

What would be the best, or are there other ways?.

Also does the wear take place when operating clutch, eg not a good idea to push clutch in when starting engine.

Any advice much appriciated.

Cheers, Dave





Hi
The best way to measure crank end float is with a Dial indicator attached to a magnetic base. A bit fidely to set up but accurate. Push or lever the crankshaft pulley towards the engine, set the dial indicator and then lever or pull he pulley forward to measure the end float.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, some interesting comments. I realise that I habitually press the clutch when starting - never give it a second thought - and certainly never realised it puts things under pressure. I think I started doing it when I learnt to drive tractors & farm machinery at the age of 10 - you don't want to start a tractor in gear, or worse with the PTO engaged - aargh!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...