1967 MkIII Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 So I've spent this gorgeous sunny weekend replacing brake wheel cylinders & shoes.While unbolting the LH wheel cylinder the nut on the copper line twisted and sheared. This is the line which runs from the wheel cylinder round and under the shaft and then connects to the brake hose. Now I can't find this line only available as a part, seems to be only sold as a set, which I don't need. I've tried James Paddock, Canley even Rimmer in desperation. Any ideas please?The other thing is I decided to upgrade to stainless braided hoses and got the set from James Paddock for the MkIII - "short set", however the rear hoses are very tight with absolutely no play left. Comparing to the standard set I had before they are only maybe 1 or 2 cm shorter but I'm wondering if they have enough room to stretch while on the road. Any others out there using these?ThanksSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 You can repair the copper line by replacing the bit that has broken. You will need the pipe and a flaring tool and the nuts male and female.You could buy a full kit but no need to as you don't need the full kit only one repair piece.As for the rear braded set, you need the longer pipes. They will not stretch. I got my hoses from Paddocks and ended up sending them back and getting the longer ones. They suited fine.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar0sc Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I've been doing a similar thing (my pipes on the rear LHS are (for no apparent reason) inexplicably the original ones - dated and all!) and I just got my local friendly Volvo garage to whip up a new copper one for me :)And on Friday I discovered a classic car workshop just five minutes away, and the chap who runs it has made up the other copper pipe I needed :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Take the line to a motor factor and get them to make you up a new line in Kunifer (Copper pipes are pure garbage), doing this will save you buying a flaring tool (Cheap ones of those are also crap). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967 MkIII Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Great stuff, thanks for the tips. Of course since i first posted i've now managed to snap one of the retaining clips that keep the wheel cylinder in place... I'm a better customer at Paddocks than I wish to be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 2057 wrote:Great stuff, thanks for the tips. Of course since i first posted i've now managed to snap one of the retaining clips that keep the wheel cylinder in place... I'm a better customer at Paddocks than I wish to be!PM sent Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967 MkIII Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 I got the copper line made up by my mechanic and just shaped them myself with guidance from John Bonnett (thanks!).I also got the longer hoses for the rear and they fit much better.My last concern is the wheel cylinder clips. Even with these in place the entire wheel cylinder can move sideways if I push it. It won't slide alone but it's not locked in position. Is this correct or have I fitted the clips wrong? I've put the flat piece first against the back plate, with the open end towards the rear. The curved clip is then on the outside, with the open ends facing forward. I tried to take pics but they didn't come too clear. Can try again tomorrow with better light.With any luck this weekend should see the end of this job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancepar Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 The wheel cylinder is meant to slide, something to do with the parking brake innit? 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nilfisken Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 The wheel cylinder must slide to be able to push on both brake shoes. If I'm not completely forgotten how it works the wheel cylinder has only one piston (pointing towards the front of the car) that is engaged by the hydraulic line so when that one reaches the brake shoe towards the front it first pushes back so it's rear side meats the rear brake show and then it will gradually push both out by sliding more backwards and pushing the piston further out. The rear of the cylinder (the part in contact with the backing plate) should be lightly greased with brake grease to assist in the sliding motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 lets hope it does not rain and get it all wet . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 We get our s/s braided made up locally .Should be 12" long for allowing suspension movement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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