Brake Pipe lengths - Vitesse

[Bagsecg]

Hi guys,

I'm currently carrying out a full chassis up rebuild of two Mk1 2litre Vitesses. Having completed the rebuild of the chassis and suspension/ steering mechanisms, I am now in a position to start work on the braking system.

What I would lije to know is, does anyone have a list of the lengths of the individual copper/kunifer brake pipes. I have been through all the manuals in my possession, as well as the parts catalogue. I know I can use a piece of string/wire and get the lengths myself, but if one of you chaps could help, it simply makes life so much easier.

[garyf]

Why not buy a brake pipe kit off one of the usual Suppliers, I'm sure Canleys do one?

These should come all made to the correct lengths with the correct male/female unions fitted?

Regards

Gary

[Bagsecg]

The answer to that is very simple. I'm very poor. Added to that is the fact that I have the brake pipe and connectors in stock, which need to be used up.

[jaybee]

Beg, steal or borrow a pipe flaring tool that can be hand-held if required. Flare one end of your pipe and put on the fitting. Temporarily connect the pipe, bend and route it, and leave enough free length at the other end to make the flare. Remove the pipe if necessary, or make the flare in-situ with the hand-held tool (don't forget to put the fitting on the pipe before forming the flare). Hey presto, made-to-measure pipe!
Use kunifer or copper pipe in preference to steel (it's difficult to bend and flare, and it goes rusty).

[TedTaylor]

Do you live anywhere near the Forest of Dean because if you do I will sort it for you provided you bring the old pipes to me as patterns when I flare and bend up.

I have a proper lever/cam operated S-P flaring tool which is the best way to make the flares, the hand held jobbies are OK (I have one of the over-lock clamp type for emergencies when I have to do a flare on a vehicle) but in practice the SP tool is the best thing to use.  Trouble is they are very expensive (£400 plus depending upon the dies you get) - and unless you can see yourself doing lots the cost is rarely justified. I bought mine 30 years ago and while most use is for myself it has been well worth the investment.

I only use cupro-nickel (or Kunifer) because I don't think copper provides a good long term solution (some will disagree) - a point proven when I had to undo four copper pipes on the Range Rover I am sorting out and every one chewed itself when the union was undone.  

To do tighter bends in cupro nickel does really need appropriate pipe benders but I have accumulated a range of five for this job over the years, but as the reason in part for changing the copper ones on the Rangie was an MOT failure because of kinks in the original ones it is arguable that tight bends in copper are best done with benders. However watch out with the hand held pincer type which if not used carefully can cause nicks in the pipe.

Ted