THe Maestro Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 I'm trying to replace my master cylinder and remove my brake servo, however I can't unscrew the copper brake pipe at either end so I need a new length of about 1 meter with the screw-in attachments at either end. Does anyone know if normal local motor factors are likely to have this or are the screw-in fittings none standard? All the normal Triumph parts dealers only seem to sell complete kits.Thinking about it I might as well get some pipe, flaring kit and the screw fittings myself - does anyone know what diameter pipe to buy and the correct screw attachments?Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Good motor factors will be able to make up brake pipes for you. Best to take the old pipe with you, as they will need to check the threads of the unions and also the flare at the end of the pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe Maestro Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 oops too late, just ordered a pipe flaring, cutting and bending tool for 10 quid! Bet its going to be garbage but worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Those cheap tools are pretty crap but if yo're careful you can achieve a half decent flare - handy to have but not to use - rather fiddly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 with a bit of practice, you will find oot what does it the best way,I got two, a dear one and a cheapie, and I like the cheapie better, Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 You'll probably find you'll need a few practice goes with the flaring tool.......Nuts are UNF thread. You should be able to get these individually from a decent motor factor but worth taking a sample with you as they don't look very different from the metric ones!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Nick_Jones wrote:You'll probably find you'll need a few practice goes with the flaring tool.......NickA lot of practice goes!! I remember some of my early efforts with dread... ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Copper coils, 3/16" dia £9.00 a coil, male and female fittings £0.60 ea.Dead easy to do . Just done a complete 2000 and tomorrow a GT6Flaring tools,cutter and bender from Machine Mart or Sealey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe Maestro Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 I think it would have been cheaper just to get a factor to make me up the one pipe but at least I'll have the tool to mess around with this way. It seems incredible that some flaring tools are 250 quid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 You really need a spanner with 6 sides, [ flats ] and a cut oot in it, to get onto the nut,these darn nuts are very soft, and so easily ..round off, :-/ :-/there are some purpose made ones oot there,.but if ye got an old 6 sided one, then cut a slit in it,Maestro, which one ye got !!pikky please, Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 do a check on google and you will find a video of a guy using the flaring tool. Very helpful!! i would have been at it for hours if i hadn't seen it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 61 wrote: It seems incredible that some flaring tools are 250 quid!But you get what you pay for, good quality professional kit will cost acordingly. You can get a mid-range vice mounted flaring set for under £100, this is what I've been using for the past six or seven years. The cheap handheld flaring kits are OK for occasional work, but be wary of breaking off the tips which sit inside the tube, they can be very fragile.Under normal circumstances, I would recommend using copper-nickel alloy (cunifer) tube in preference to copper. This is less prone to work hardening, but the soft copper pipe will be kinder on your flaring toll, horses for courses,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I've got a Sykes Pickavant flarer set (got two actually, must get rid of one!), I have to say that it produces consistent quality flares every time, whereas the cheap ones often require several goes or a lot of cleaning up afterwards. I wouldn't go back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I use one of the two-handed grip flaring tools, very easy to use and produces perfect flares, but it took a few practice goes.. or quite a lot of practice goes - on old cut-offs of pipe before I even went near a car. Not very expensive but great for the home garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe Maestro Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 796 wrote:You really need a spanner with 6 sides, [ flats ] and a cut oot in it, to get onto the nut,these darn nuts are very soft, and so easily ..round off, :-/ :-/there are some purpose made ones oot there,.but if ye got an old 6 sided one, then cut a slit in it,Maestro, which one ye got !!pikky please, MarcusYeah, the problem ones were the ones going into the Master Cylinder and the servo. Both aluminum with a steel connector screwed in. I had to unscrew several others which were screwing into steel (at calipers and 3 way joint) and they came out no probs. Actually the ones from the brake cyclinders came out too and they are alu. The master cylinder one is very awkward to get a spanner around and is thoroughly rounded off now. I'm going to have to lift the MC and servo off in one piece and throw in the bin.What are you after a picture of? You didn't say.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hi Maestro, here is a pic of wat i did to the M C unions,after being fed up with then ..rounding off.. not just on mine, but others too,just get a bolt, or threaded bar, drill a hole thru it, , and ..round the top off,this so that the pipe will sael better,and , use a copper or alloy washer as a seal,..locktite..the nut and clamp up,.the bits are the female ones, plus its a little higher, so can get at them easier,you going to take the MC off, so might as well doo it whenst offpikky of what ye ask, the tool ye got to flare the tube,regards Marcusmodded MC unions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe Maestro Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Looks nice. I suppose if you got a stud which was threaded at each end then you could do away with the loctite too and unscrew it either from the female bit or at the MC. I don't think I have the equipment to drill through the center of a bolt/stud/threaded bar though - don't you need some kind of precision bench drill?I think I'll just put a healthy dose of copperease on the threads for now any maybe do something like that in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 if you no some body,or a factory, with a lathe, they will prob doo it for free,as it only takes a minMarcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 A male to male adaptor is used in the main brake line, mid-way along the chassis. One of these would do the same job of converting the master cylinder to a male fitting,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe Maestro Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 heraldcoupe wrote:A male to male adaptor is used in the main brake line, mid-way along the chassis. One of these would do the same job of converting the master cylinder to a male fitting,Cheers,Bill.I think GT6 M's main concern was probably moving the nut away from the MC so its easier to get a spanner on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 61 wrote:I think GT6 M's main concern was probably moving the nut away from the MC so its easier to get a spanner on it. The female union is taller than the male, and will be moved away from the cylinder body by about half an inch if a M-M adaptor is used,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe Maestro Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 heraldcoupe wrote:The female union is taller than the male, and will be moved away from the cylinder body by about half an inch if a M-M adaptor is used,Cheers,Bill.Not only is it taller its now legal :X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 its noo legal, !!!that mean you putting some on !!!!yip I was wanting it as far away as poss, but the F to F will doo, as you will still be able to get a better grip on it, and also if you get a spanner with a slit in it, better still,.may be a bit close to the monting bolt though,.Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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