GT6 - Front Wheel bearings

[oldbanger]

Hi,  Car failed MOT - couple of issues which I've fixed,    and then a couple of advisories - one of which being the front wheel bearings have a little play - the mechanic suggested I tighten them slightly , I couldn't find anything in the Hynes so-  here's what I did - will it do.


I took of the castellated nut - then cleaned and greased it - then torqued it  up to 13lbs then spun the nut back a flat (or two) - then packed with grease and cleaned down the work bench :o)


The wheels spin ok,  will the bearing be tight enough ??

[Nick Jones]

Common problem with "new" generation of MoT men.  They have been brought up on modern bearings and believe that any play is too much.  In fact the style used on the GT6 and many others of that era should have a little play.  The actual amount of play is somewhat subjective.

You should certainly not torque up the nut and this will destroy the bearing very quickly with probable scary consequences.  My technique is to refit the wheel without the bearing cap and tighten the nut until the point where play, as felt at the wheel rim, has virtually gone, then back the nut off to the next available split pin hole.

If they are much tighter than this you tend to get the bearing turning on the stub axles rather within itself, which soon wears the stub axle causing play that cannot be adjusted out.  The test for that condition is that play can be felt when rocking the wheel in the 12/6 o'clock direction, but not in the 3/9 o'clock direction.

Nick

[Paudman]

Nick_Jones wrote:

My technique is to refit the wheel without the bearing cap and tighten the nut until the point where play, as felt at the wheel rim, has virtually gone, then back the nut off to the next available split pin hole.

That's the way I've always done it - "back off one flat" was the phrase I remember - however on Wheeler Dealers recently they replaced the wheel bearings on some American muscle-extension car and Edd China backed the wheel nut off 90 degrees. I thought that would be a bit slack, meself.

[oldbanger]

Cheers guys, Much appreciated.

The MOT chap was of the older bloke type (40+)  and said he'd had a GT6 before,,,, thing was that he spotted loads of things that their (Halfords) younger MOT chap hadn't spotted last year,,,,, and conversely - he didn't spot some of the things that their younger chap had spotted last year (which I'm not gonna write on here till it passes - in case he's a member lol).   Car's only done 600 mile in the year - so rust/ wear and tear is no issue.


Good point about wobbling 12-6 oclock -  their was I being a numbty wiggling it 3-9 oclock and muttering -  'but its just the steering'  -   I'll check today and confirm.

Also my mates got back to me with the Spitty Hynes instructions -  remove the brake calliper and tighten till you feel a slight resistance - then back of a flat of two -  sounds good.

90 degrees -does sound a little too much.

I seem to remember with my old student Chevette (in the 80/90's) - something about tighten it up to x lbs,  then back of using a set of feeler blades -   but can't find the damn manual -  think its so old and abused its like hamster bedding by now - festering around in my mums loft.

Right back to it before the rain starts AGAIN .  

Cheers again guys.

[oldbanger]

right - despite the weathers best attempts to keep me in doors -  job done !


Quick question - should there be any play at all in the 12-6oclock direction ?  (I followed your advice and that of the spitfire manual)    and I'm getting a mi-nute  knocking - is that ok?

[Nick Jones]

Yes there needs to be approx 1 - 2mm play at the wheel rim.  IE just detectable movement/"knock".  Should be the same in 12/6 & 9/3 directions.  Noticeably more in the 12/6 direction usually means worn stub axles.

Nick

[oldbanger]

cheers Nick,  

time to put my feet up - wiggle my toes,  tootle merry tunes and arrange a re-MOT.

Thanks
Jon