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rear wheel bearings


steve leckey

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Steve, you have probably preloaded the bearings and will need to add some more shims. You should add (upto 2)  3 thou shims until you are able to detect very slight play (and I do mean slight) which will be the correct end float . You should do this 'dry' and when correct, take apart and grease thoroughly.

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Steve, Found this on the CC website:

Quote:
Replacement wheel bearings should be re-shimmed to give the correct end float/proload. In most cases replacing the equivalent shims and spacers from the old unit will give an acceptable result but if the hub has been replaced or the unit assembled from parts, then the following procedure should be followed. Fit bearing cups into vertical link. Fit outer race and outer shell into vertical link. Fit hub making sure it is fully down. Fit inner race. Put spacer and shims in place - measure accross bearing inner race with straight edge and feeler gauge such that the hub and shims are 0.001 - 0.002 higher than an inner bearing race. Fit outer axle shaft fully home and tighten nut to 90ft/lb. You should feel VERY slight play - if you can feel end float, reduce shims - if preload, increase shims. When correct, take apart, grease and fit inner seal. Don't forget a new Metalastick Rotoflex.


The endfloat should be 0.0005" to 0.0025". The thick shims used to set the endfloat are unavailable, well I couldn't find any! Only the 3 thou shim is readily available. Since you seem to have preload on the bearings you have the option of grinding a few thou off the spacer fitted at the moment until there is no preload. Assembly/dis-assembly to measure the end float is a real pain I ended getting an old outer shaft and turning it down slightly so that it was easy push fit through the hub - makes assembly/disassembly a doddle while setting the endfloat.  

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