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rear wheel bearing replacement


doctee

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Hi all.
        Just took my Hearld for it's annual poke, prod and wiggle more commonly known as a mot.
      It failed on front discs warpped and hand brake not good enough (the lever goes up and down what more does the guy want !!), anyway, he advised me of  wear in front nearside bearings and rear nearside bearings. what I'd like to know is how hard is it to replace the rear bearings, I have read you need a special hub puller for the rear bearings or you can damage the hub is this right and is there anything I should what out for i.e hidden circlips etc.
many thanks
doctee
        

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there should be play in the front wheels 0.002 to 0.008" endfloat  is  most important

at the rear you are most likely to need a  churchill type hub puller to get the hub off the drive shaft taper
it can be real tight,  using a 2 leg puller can distort the hub flange.

the main bearing race is pressed/knock on to a dimension from the shaft shoulder
you would do best to  take the drive shaft and trunnion off the car to do this ,get a new needle roller for the inner end of the trunion at the same time

if the guy has found some rock on the rear why does he think its bearing  there  are
trunnion bushes that wear   are you sure its not the hub is loose on the shaft,, check the centre nut is B tight   Pete

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Hi Pete,
           Many thanks for the info, I have decided to do the full hit. poly bushes all round, new shockers and springs on the front, new shockers on the rear, so I will check the rear tunnions when I strip the rear down. I am pretty sure the rear bearing is shot, when travelling at high speed (70 - 75) the car feels awful, vibrates. I have a new propshaft on the car and the rear u.j's haven't got any play in them-so I guess that leaves the rear wheel bearings (I have had all the wheels re-balanced as well), but I can check out everything as I strip them down.
rehgards
Trev

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heraldcoupe wrote:
The inner part of the rear bearing set has needle rollers running directly onto the axle shaft. If this bearing is shot, your shaft will already be scrap.
Cheers,
Bill.


and on that happy note, cheers Bill

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Hi All
       Just checked rear wheel bearings and the hub nut had come loose (on both sides many thanks Pete), I will order two new hub nuts, the hub nut torque settings are 100 lbft. I have a Dewalt electric hammer gun, would it be alright to tighten the hub nut using the hammer gun as  my torque wrench dosen't go up to 100 lbft.
The reason the handbrake wasn't working properly was due to both rear slave cylinders leaking, when I tried to order the slave cylinders there was 2 - 3 different sizes how do I tell which ones are fitted to my car (I have discs on the front).
many thanks
doctee

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  • 2 months later...

sorry to resurect such an old thread but ive had a lot of trouble with getting my rear wheel bearings off. I got the hubs off and pushed the trunnion down onto the shaft but the bearing is not shifting- i got a bearing/gear puller and it broke clean in half. also managed to squash the first thread of the threaded section at the end so the nut doesnt even screw on anymore :o... any ideas would be apreciated

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716 wrote:
i got a bearing/gear puller and it broke clean in half. also managed to squash the first thread of the threaded section at the end so the nut doesnt even screw on anymore :o... any ideas would be apreciated


Buy a better quality one. It really does need to be heavy duty. Those cheaper shiny silver ones break if you even breathe on them. Get a die in a suitable size for your axle thread and rethread, but I'd persevere for now in getting the hub off then rethread it.

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Photo's please. Which bearing? The big bearing in the housing or the needle roller. If either bearing is stuck to the shaft then the shaft may well be U/S.

You can repair/reclaim the thread with a thread file and/or a die-nut (snap-on etc do them) which will persuade the thread back into place.  ;)

If you have got the hub off the shaft you should be able to drift the shaft from the bearing carrier with a 2lb or 3lb copper/hide hammer.  ??)

You may be looking at a new shaft. Bearings, shaft & trunnion cost about £100.  :'(

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That's easily remedied, a die of the correct size will rethread that.
You really need one of these to pull the hub, eBay item number 320428682296 so beg or borrow one.
First time I used one on a GT6 MK3 rear hub I tightened it up so much I started to get worried, then it gave a loud crack and the bearing came off.

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Count - if you are going to replace that bearing anyway then just take it off with an angle grinder. Use a pair of molegrips to stop the outer race rotating and cut through. You will then be able to whack or pull the outer race off. Then cut almost through the inner race, With care you can just nearly get all the way through without actually reaching the shaft (takes a steady hand) then a few blows with a cold chisel will break it off. Needs a lot of care with the grinder but is fairly easy to do.

That thread looks as though you will be able to recover it easily; I've seen much worse restored okay, just use the methods described above

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hmm maybe ill just put it back together and pretend i fixed it ;) lol
sigh ill take it to the mechanics over the road and if it doesnt cost to much let them at it. otherwise mr. angry grinder it is.(smarty2) fe#ing thing...

Does anyone know what thread it is and where i can get the corresponding die thing?
Also how would i go about putting the new bearing on? please dont say i need yet another next tool
thanks for all the help guys

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You really need a workshop manual to tell you these things, especially the exact distance you need to drive the bearing onto the shaft etc. If you don't have one (a Haynes will do fine) then PM me your email address and I won't scan my Haynes pages, nor send them to you, so I don't break any copyright laws.

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ive got a haynes manual thanks for offer tho. doesnt say anything bout distances ,except refitting needle baering and thats vague.  
hmm im not fortunate to own a vice or copper hammer which is a shame cos that sounds far better than the stupid bearing puller. ill see how much the mechanics want and how much a vice will cost me.
cheers for all the help

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716 wrote:
ive got a haynes manual thanks for offer tho. doesnt say anything bout distances ,except refitting needle baering and thats vague.  
hmm im not fortunate to own a vice or copper hammer which is a shame cos that sounds far better than the stupid bearing puller. ill see how much the mechanics want and how much a vice will cost me.
cheers for all the help


Chapter 7, Section 5 on page 185, plus fig 7.11 on page 186 should give you all the info you need. A vice is not 100% essential, it can be done be done on the kitchen table with enough thought and patience, but is easier of course.

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Quote:
Chapter 7, Section 5 on page 185, plus fig 7.11 on page 186

??) my manual has rear axle section as chp 8 page 132-139?? but i think i kno waht pages you on about.

Im in north london- barnet ive never been to a meeting, depends on how far it is as ive no car (working anyway) so its difficult to get to places but would be handy

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716 wrote:


Im in north london- barnet ive never been to a meeting, depends on how far it is as ive no car (working anyway) so its difficult to get to places but would be handy


Ther are plenty of people from teh barnet area who come to teh Plough at Crews Hill, so put out a plea for a lift!

If all else fails you could com eon teh train!

:-)

Colin

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Right ive started a restoration course so ill bring them in and use their nice big vices there.  (smarty2)
However I dont have a clue what size thread it is?
And where can i get the coresponding die?
if they have it at the college ill use theres but theyve downgraded their engineering dept cos of this nations youths disapointing decline in engineering interest... i shant start...

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