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Vitesse tyre size


GarthT

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Quite simply what tyres have you got on your Vitesse?

Mine is being treated to some long overdue new rubber and I cannot decide between 175/70/13 and 185/60/13.

Can you tell me the pros and cons of each size? I know that Yoko A539s get a good review on here, what other tyres have folk been pleased with?

Or there another wheel or tyre size I should be considering as I may get a new set of alloys.

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I have 5.5J GT6 wheels, and have just put a set of 165's on with an 80 profile- these look right for the car and clear the arches. I know a lot of people like a lower profile but I always think it looks a bit weird having rubber bands on an old car, especially on period wheels.

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Thanks for that chaps, I appreciate all your input.

vitessesteve, great little converter there, forgot about his site, ta.

royboy, I'm seriously considering the A drives, they're quite cheap as well. I've had them on my modern motor and they're a splendid tyre so I might be having some of them. Cracking picture btw, your GT6 looks great especially in front of the MG... ;)

Nick, that's what I want, something that doesn't foul anything, I sometimes smell rubber with the current 185s, so the 175s are looking favourite.

The question is now, which alloys? I'd like a set of polished Slot Mags but they are quite hard to come by and would probably need refurbing. I quite like a black Minilite with a polished rim, but having seen someones Spit/GT6 with black/polished D1s, I am torn again.....

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2204 wrote:


The question is now, which alloys? I'd like a set of polished Slot Mags but they are quite hard to come by and would probably need refurbing. .




Nah, you just need to keep your ear to the ground ;)

Got 10 of the beasties now, all genuine Wolfraces too. Just picked up 6 for 50 quid, complete with tyres.


Current wheels on the Vit?

5.5x13 Wolfraces with 175/70x13 Falken Sincera SN828's.

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2204 wrote:


Mine is being treated to some long overdue new rubber and I cannot decide between 175/70/13 and 185/60/13.


185/60's are a dying size, very few cars fitted them, most notable car was the old XR2 Fiesta and they're getting like rocking horse pooh now.

175/70's are a common fit on lots of superminis and are a direct replacement fit for the OEM fit 155's and keep the speedo and gearing near as dammit.


http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html.

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Hi - sorry in advance...long explanation coming...

The outer edge of 175/70 rear tyre sidewalls just touched the guards if we went over a bump at open road speeds (but only with two-up, a weekend bag in the boot and a full tank of petrol). Also, the front tyres rubbed the firewall on (near) full lock when entering a driveway (or some other bump). Roger, the previous owner ran 185/60's and I can see why (no rubbing!). However I thought they were a bit small in diameter so when we noticed the tyres were going a bit hard we looked at the 175/70 option because that would return us to near standard speedo readings as well. It was then that we discovered the rubbing - others ran 175/70 fine so why couldn't we? We think that the Dunlop 5.5J wheels must carry less offset and therefore position the tyre more outboard. With the lowered suspension the problem shows itself. Anyway, when we discovered the rubbing we measured everything carefully and discovered 175/65s would fit. So we found a suitable set and had them fitted. Second time lucky! In case you are interested the tyres are Hankook Optimo K715.

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2204 wrote:
so which offset should I be getting to avoid rubbing?


Not sure what offset the Dunlop wheels are. My car is tucked away for winter just now but I'll try to access it to see if the offset is stamped on the wheel and failing that measure the backspace. I suggest you'd want at least 5mm more offset that what the Dunlop 5.5J's have - the should be enough to clear the metalwork if you have 175/70 fitted.

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2204 wrote:
so which offset should I be getting to avoid rubbing?


As mentioned before, my 6" ones are ET 13.  With 175/70 the fronts are on the limit with very occasional contact when loaded and cornering and getting cross-axled - rears could sit out another 3 - 4mm.

Nick

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Sorry for sounding thick, but does that mean the greater the ET number, the further the wheel sit out? and therefore there is more chance of rubbing?

a lot of the ones advertised are ET16, will they sit out even further and am I asking for trouble with them?

Plus, am I correct in thinking that the PCD should be 95?

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The offset or "ET" is the distance from the center line of the wheel to the mounting face (where it sits on the hub) if the mounting face was on center line it would have a offset of zero ( ET0 ) if the mounting face is more towards the front face of the wheel it has a positive 0ffset eg ET13 if the mounting face is closer to the back face relative to center line it has a negative offset eg ET-13.

if the front wheels have a lower ET they would stick out farther and describe a larger arc when turned by the steering hence moving closer to the bulkhead wheelarch  

Hope this helps

Gordon

Ps
The stud pcd is 95.25mm or 3 3/4"

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