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GT6 M

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Ello Ian,what was the valve ye were looking at.
Im lookin at thee,s seems as they are nromally closed, and open with a live.
this is fine, as I can let it open when I turn ign on.

butt, when filling up, can mek current go thru a on/off switch, to limit oil drain on pump

think this is OK!!, or any one else say a better,n
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Electric-Water-Gas-Oil-Solenoid-Valve-Normally-open-12-VOLT-DC-/371108410869?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5667c8f5f5

went to scrappy this after, and got some 3 inch ally pipe, so need to weld 2 ends on it.
got a  bigg pot type ally cylinder, needs a inlet /outlet plug int end,
and a used fire extinguisher, so plenty to fiddlate aboot with,  2£ all in,

M

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http://www.baldwinfilter.com/image/1011PHGraphic3.jpg

I cant for the life of me see just hoo this works,
all it seems tobe dooing is bypassing a filter.

is this so if first filter clogs up, it allows 2nd filter to come into play,(think)(think)

its almost like the Kale Auto engine oil bypass kit,
keeps yer engine oil as good as new,!!

http://kalecoauto.com/index.ph.....An71HCsdRYZN6xubTKu1

enlighten me Ian

M

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http://www.baldwinfilter.com/image/1011PHGraphic3.jpg

I cant for the life of me see just hoo this works,
all it seems tobe dooing is bypassing a filter.

is this so if first filter clogs up, it allows 2nd filter to come into play,(think)(think)

its almost like the Kale Auto engine oil bypass kit,
keeps yer engine oil as good as new,!!

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=40&zenid=dwAn71HCsdRYZN6xubTKu1

enlighten me Ian

M

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi everybody.

Have been wondering about this oil pressure on start up for a while.

My current and first vitesse had a spin on adapter fitted and a Mann filter which is new.

If left for a while I remove rotor arm and crank over until oil light goes out and this takes about 12 seconds, then fire her up and oil light goes out after about a second.

If using daily then I crank over on first start for about 5 second then give choke and it fires up and oil light goes out after a couple of seconds.

I have never noticed a mechanical noise from engine on start up, except maybe once or twice when engine hot and been running for a while.

Are these normal time lags.

Cheers for any advice. Dave

  

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Hi everybody.

Have been wondering about this oil pressure on start up for a while.

My current and first vitesse had a spin on adapter fitted and a Mann filter which is new.

If left for a while I remove rotor arm and crank over until oil light goes out and this takes about 12 seconds, then fire her up and oil light goes out after about a second.

If using daily then I crank over on first start for about 5 second then give choke and it fires up and oil light goes out after a couple of seconds.

I have never noticed a mechanical noise from engine on start up, except maybe once or twice when engine hot and been running for a while.

Are these normal time lags.

Cheers for any advice. Dave

  

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well I got me Markussump MK1 done, there 2 pints init, hoping its enough to fill me engine
oil ways up and maybe raise some pressure befoer it starts.
limited to size as to where I put it,
will be fitting it when yam on tues.
and some pics to show hoo it were done.

biggest outlay was the solonoid valve, less than a 5ver of flea bay
same thing at local hydro spot, nearly 60£!!!

even wid a Mann filter, the oil light still stops on aboot 4-5 secs
normal filters were about 10 secs if left fora week or so

so this mod may weel be a worth while thing for all to bung on

M

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well I got me Markussump MK1 done, there 2 pints init, hoping its enough to fill me engine
oil ways up and maybe raise some pressure befoer it starts.
limited to size as to where I put it,
will be fitting it when yam on tues.
and some pics to show hoo it were done.

biggest outlay was the solonoid valve, less than a 5ver of flea bay
same thing at local hydro spot, nearly 60£!!!

even wid a Mann filter, the oil light still stops on aboot 4-5 secs
normal filters were about 10 secs if left fora week or so

so this mod may weel be a worth while thing for all to bung on

M

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Finally got me tank in spot, done it in stainless,
as fust attempt was in Ally, and it went balloon shaped when pressure tested it at 150 PSI

Aint fired engine up yet, as run oot time the nite
Butt, its bigger than I was gonna doo, think,n if it looses a wee bit of oil frae week to week, then there still plenty left init
its aboot 3 an a bit pints, think it looks ok where I got it.

Its wired to come open when IGN is switched on,
as soon as oil light goes off, then I swith the under dash inline earth switch off,
so that when engine first starts, its no filling the thing back up,
then can open valve agen when engine is actually running

will eport back on hoo well it works when im next int shed

some piks to see what im on aboot







and fra a distance so ye get a better idea



M

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Marcus,

it's a great idea and I was pondering it over.

my thinking was 2 lines to the tank,

1) a large bore pipe as you have to quick empty the tank into the oil system with the solenoid valve negative wired to the oil pressure switch so it auto empties when the ign is activated,when pressure is high enough to extinguish the oil light the solenoid should shut off(you could fit a higher rated switch to get more pre oiling if required)this would also switch in if the light was to come on during times of low pressure like oil surge from hard cornering etc.
2) a small bore pipe say 1/8 - 3/16" fed from the main gallery back to the tank with a one way check valve to auto refill the tank.
as you have only just started the car and are driving at low speeds the pressure bleed off shouldn't be a problem.

or you could incorporate a timer delay relay so the solenoid will reactivate after a set time.

what do you think?

sorry if you have mentioned some of this already.

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Paul, thowt aboot this me sell, but this valve seems to be directional,
its arrowed, so think,n its the same type as used in the OE accky sump type

IE, it allows a quick discharge, but a slower fill up.
But bunged an inline switch on just incase it dont.
really should bung a pressure gauge onit to see what its doo,n
see if it fillls fast or slow.


It will also act, if left open, as an oil feed if there oil surge on corners / hills.
not that Ive ever noticed this , as keep a pint extra int sump
me think,n on this is, there alot of oil flung every where when engine is running.

Dip the oil after engine first off, and oil is down on dip stik,
hence extra oil int sump  to compensate.

here a vid to show how it pre charges system

https://youtu.be/uhRfUegqwxg

M

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You certainly do get a fair bit of oil "flung around" so that the level in the sump drops with the engine running compared to when you normally check the dipstick. However, the Triumph engineers were well aware of that, so the "min" mark on the stick is well above where the pump starts to struggle. So you shouldn't need your "pint extra" because the factory already did so. Probably does no harm, though, and certainly better than letting it get down to the minimum...

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For JD, this is what i med it oot of.
food grade stainless pipe, 1 mm thick, with 4 mm end plates.



And, decided to add an oil / pressure gauge, just to see whats actually init,
and also to see if the press drops owa time.
its a 0-60 type, so I can auto see when its high just cos needles way round.





M

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