Matt306 Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 The top of my project 1600 engine has signs of corrosion around the water galleries, whats recommended a light sand or some engineering. Given the little bean can piston come up to the top of the block there isnt much to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 I wouldn't recommend sanding an engine - it should be done properly really and skim the engine. Check piston protrusion, and if needs be, deck the pistons down a touch too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Think I'll get em skimmed then. When you say deck them down what do you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 I think you'll find that the highest point the pistons actually reach is about 0.020" below the block surface, maybe a little more on the 1600 as they have a thin head gasket.This should give some room for manoeuvre. I actually run run my 2L with 0.005" "pop-up" but it has the thicker 2L head gasket obviously.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 It looks like the engine old head gasket had a leak on one of the cylinders as there is a little pitting on the block around one cylinder. Not much mind. The area around water galleries has a little pitting. The head valves are set back quite a way on the head so should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 have you a straight edge you can use with some feeler gauges to check the block & head faces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 "Decking" is measuring the lowest piston's height in the block, shaving the others so they are all the same, and then skimming the block so they all come up to the same point, either level with the block deck, or popping up as Nick decsribes.Possible to DiY the pistons, a lather is best, but I've not done it.The block, as JJ says should be machine skimmed.While thnking about jobs you can and can't do yourself, what about cam bearings?The boring is a pro-job, but renewing the bearings, which are cheap, llok simple to install, given the tool.The tool comes in all sorts of prices from £20-200.Anyone done this, and what do you use?JOhn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1968Vitesse25 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Unless the pitting is seriously deep, just spray some Blue Hylomar on the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 I'll take some photos, not too bad in all honesty.Hadnt thought of Cam bearings , thought of mains and big end bearings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Cam bearings in a 6....... you've really got to want them! Don't think any of them had them as standard and getting the block bored for them is expensive, always assuming you can a find machine shop to do it - one that can actually do it right that is, not just one that thinks they can. Unless you are planning a monster cam and high rpms it's really not worth the aggro!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Quoted from Nick Jones Cam bearings in a 6....... you've really got to want them! Don't think any of them had them as standard and getting the block bored for them is expensive, always assuming you can a find machine shop to do it - one that can actually do it right that is, not just one that thinks they can. Unless you are planning a monster cam and high rpms it's really not worth the aggro!Nick Just crossed it off the list.Nick was it your 1600 with the original expansion tank for water? What carbs u got on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Nope, not mine. Mine's a 2L with injection.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 just getting around to getting the head skimmed and enquiring as to prices to have some u/l valve seats put in too.... OMG over £200. I think my four pot had this and valve guides for a little over £100. Is this a normal price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 About £ 10 - 12 per valve usually for the inserts (exhaust only). £ 5 - 8 to fit/ream new guides and cut seats without inserts. Adds up. If they are supplying the valves and guides that adds a fair bit!6 pot always at least 50% more expensive to do compared to 4 pot for obvious reasons.....Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Hello Nick, I paid £215 to bore, supply and fit cam bearings three years ago, Bradbury Engineerin near Market Drayton. An old school engine machine shop.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 Quoted from Nick Jones About £ 10 - 12 per valve usually for the inserts (exhaust only). £ 5 - 8 to fit/ream new guides and cut seats without inserts. Adds up. If they are supplying the valves and guides that adds a fair bit!6 pot always at least 50% more expensive to do compared to 4 pot for obvious reasons.....Nick I have the seats here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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