Straight Six Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Does anyone have tips/fitting instructions for fitting telescopic dampers to a Vitesse? Do the bump stop brackets need to come off?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Good conversion IMO.You need the chassis extension brackets and correct length dampers. There is dispute about whether these really exist but I'm using OE Armstrong ones as listed for Herald or Vitesse Mk1 and they seem to work ok. Rotoflex GT6 ones apparently don't.Getting the chassis brackets in can be a bit of a pain and you may have to loosen several of the body mounts to get them in.You can leave the bump stops in place, but they won't be doing anything as the bump and droop stops are now in the damper itself.CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Six Posted September 15, 2008 Author Share Posted September 15, 2008 Excellent, So the bottom of the telescopic damper fits where the old lever arm one fitted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cye Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Hi all, just started today on the re-furbishment on my MK2 Vitesse;regards to rotoflex. So off I go to TRGB with a wod of cash. Told them what I want to do; complete strip and re-build. Regards to the rear end. Only to be told rotoflex coupling not in stock and dont know when they are likely to be in stock;as there seems to be an issue with them at the moment.i.e the quality. Apparently Rimmers have got some but they are very expensive. Ok so I will have to wait. Apparently TRGB have 500 on order from Italy. Ok so go on to the next bit; link assembly. That goes on the damper arm, are no longer available and haven't been for the last 5 years or so. That cheered me up no end, as i have managed to get hold of the original oil that needs to go inside the damper. And they come up like new. The links assemblys that are on the car at the moment are good. So I am going to put those with my re-conditioned dampers in a safe place. TRGB did tell me a solution to get around this problem,is to convert to shock absorber. Ok how to I do that? They showed me a bracket, only one mind you as thats all they had. As they know I can fabricate things. So I am in the process of fabricating three brackets, two for me and one for TRGB. Apparently you can get these brackets from Sports Car Supplies but they are not cheap. TRGB said that if I fabricate the brackets they will supply the shocks, the gas shock absorber. part no TRGB 399. So if anybody can shed some light on this or any tips will be most appreciated. CYE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Straight_Six wrote:Excellent, So the bottom of the telescopic damper fits where the old lever arm one fitted?Yes.Cye,I think there are other sources for rotoflexes. However, with the possible exception of some special racing (polyurethane?) ones, the best ones to have are the original Metalastik ones (now made by Trelleborg). The others are rubbish (but not especially cheap) and best avoided unless you like changing rotoflexes every couple of years or so.....Another solution is to use one of the CV conversions which, as well as eliminating the rotoflex problem for ever ( :) :)), means you can fit the standard Mk1 Vitesse damper on the existing mounting points with no need for extensions.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve AKA vitessesteve Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Jigsaw are listing the conversation brackets. see http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/development.htm I have a set from TSSC fitted to my Vitesse not sure if they still do them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Six Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 Cye,The choice of telescopic dampers for the back end of a MkII Vitesse is a right can of worms!I've received excellent advice from several knowledgable people about this, and the general opinion is not to go for Spax. However, that is where people stop agreeing and it starts to get confusing. Some reckon that AVO offer the correct length dampers for this application and are fine. Others say that the latest AVO products are not all they used to be quality wise, especially with the bush arrangement.Others say that the Koni damper made for the front of a lowered classic Mini fit ok, and are the correct length. I've rung round and these are available direct from Koni (at a price....) or from Mini specialists. Then again, an awful lot of people have been running rotoflex Vitesses with MkI Vitesse Koni dampers fitted for years and have had no problems. I don't know what the answer is, but if you find out please let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I fitted this conversion years ago to my GT6, same thing really.The supplied shocks were spax (when they were OK, or seemed to be, and they came in cheap) but were a bit shorted than the std spit/herald vit 1 type.To add to this a friend had the same brackets, but had them modified so they took the longer std spit type shocks, and I think the mod was a couple of 90 bends to replace the single 30 degree one, if that makes sense. But agree the std shocks will work, but may run out of travel. Shame the brackets were not designed for the std rear shocks really, can't be difficult.Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 When I had my first Vitesse and I was skint I couldn't afford the telescopic conversion so I "reconditioned" the lever arms with some thicker oil. Granted the links were still available then - the results were much better damping. When I could afford the telescopic conversion I fitted it and found no real difference between that and my DIY "upfrade" - I was disappointed!Just a thought but if you can make anti-roll bar links from rose joints, can you make lever arm ahock links in the same way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Jason wrote:Just a thought but if you can make anti-roll bar links from rose joints, can you make lever arm ahock links in the same way?Yes, the guy who does much of my machining builds motorbike dampers this way. You really don't want to know how much they cost though......Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cye Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Hi Nick,Seems as you know who makes the rotoflex coupling now i.e, trelleborg the wife managed to get hold of them today. They have asked for pictures and sizes, measurements.Before they can say whether they can help or not, and if so how much it will cost and the availability.Would you or any body have trelleborgs' part number for the rotoflex coupling.The info i got off my old ones that has got metaastik on it. Numbers are, 66237 and 2132.But half way through the 66 number I can only just make out what looks like a 2. But I cant be too sure. So I shall take my pictures and do my measurements and send them in email to them. Once I have all parts available to me I shall give everyone an update. cye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 The Trelleborg referance is either 21/979/1, or 10-03019-01. Try both one of them is good.From memory the price varies on how many you buy, 500> £50 each rings a bell, 200> £60, 100> £70, and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 mseh1971 wrote:They have asked for pictures and sizes, measurements.Before they can say whether they can help or not, and if so how much it will cost and the availability.Typical Trelleborg - they pay little attention to the catalogued products of the companies they take over. Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 The dimensions are given here:www.missionsupplyonline.com/pdf/rotoflex.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cye Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Hi all,Managed to get hold of Trelleborg and found out a price and availability for the rotoflex coupling; also part number 21/979/1 Interleaf Type. £73.00 plus vat and £12.00 post and packaging.If paying with card, will post right away, but if paying with cheque they will only post once cheques cleared. Any body wants to get hold of them, their telephone number is 0116 2670300, or email Lucy King at lucy@robush.co.uk.And she will be able to help. As i said to start with I am in the process of re-furbishing the back end suspension. I have managed to brake down the rear vertical link and I have come across 1 shim and spacer. The spacer is about 3-4mm thick and the shim which I only have one of; the other side didn't have one at all only measures about the thickness of tin foil. Can these be replaced if so were from, or do I have to use the old ones? Any help will be most appreciated.CYE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypoid53 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 The fitment of shims/spacers is more down to the last person who rebuilt it! They probably did not do it correctly as setting the end float requires patience.The spacers for the rotoflex hub are/were 0.139", 0.141", 0.143", 0.148" and 0.155"The shims (140793) are all 0.003"A combination of the two will enable the end float to be adjusted.These are not all available but try Mick Dolphin as he may have some left (although I have probably had most of his stock!)As you will be fitting new bearings you will have to start afresh for the end float anyway.Check out the basics in the red GT6 workshop manual.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I`ve converted the rear to CV jointed driveshafts and looked at doing the leverarm to tele`s at the same time. After speaking to a couple of people (with years of experience) I decided against it. However I did have the lever arms rebuilt by a guy in Croydon and after fitting it all, along with new drop link, poly bushes etc I am well pleased with the handling. The only dodgy part IMO are the replacement drop links, not the best quality, so I`m going to look at building my own rose jointed version after the RBRR. When completed I`ll post piccies and give feedback on my results. Who knows I may be able to sell some ;D Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 If you have CV shafts you can fit telescopics without any extension brackets. Just fit Mk1 Vit/Herald shocks using the chassis brackets as normal - there will be no interference issues with the rotoflex 'cause it isn't there ;DNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cye Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Hi all thanks for the tips. If I cant get hold of any shims, looks like I will be doing some fancy work on the lathe making new ones. I did have a quick look through all my manuals that I have aquired through the years the only one that seems to make any sence is the big red work shop manual I've got. I did notice whilst reading that there is a special tool for measuring hub bearing end float. Has anybody seen one of these or got one? Wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of one, then I will try and fabricate one of those as well! I did come across a good web sight regards to placing rear wheel bearings.www.mikeross-dds.com/rrbrng.html I have come up with an idea for the link assembly that goes on the damper arm.It is a part that can be got off the shelf for about £30.Hopefully with a slight modification it will work. But I am not going to shout it from the roof tops yet, as it might go pear shape yet! cye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Got to say that I am relieved to have gone the CV shaft way. Pulling the rear suspension down is so easy, literally 20mins work and puttng back is about 40mins. No more fighting against the dammed doughnut. Best mod to my car in 25 years of ownership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 timbancroft61 wrote:Got to say that I am relieved to have gone the CV shaft way. Pulling the rear suspension down is so easy, literally 20mins work and puttng back is about 40mins. No more fighting against the dammed doughnut. Best mod to my car in 25 years of ownership.Oh yeah! Whole different game - so much easier. Shouldn't need taking apart very often either!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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