ResinRocket Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 I seem to be bombarding this board with questions - sorry!I have a 3/4 inch lowering block that a friend made up for me, and I'm gearing myself up to fit it to my Equipe.From what I can make out, this is what I need to do to fit it...- Jack up and support the car on the chassis so the wheels are off the road.- Take off the inspection plate in the boot.- Undo the 6 nuts, and remove the 6 studs and top plate.- Jack up the spring.- Fit lowering block between diff and spring.- Insert longer studs.- Replace top plate, nuts and torque up.Is that about right? Have I missed anything, or is there going to be something major that I'm about to encounter that will make me lose the will to live?!As I said, apologies for all the questions, I'm new to the world of Standard Triumph! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 That's pretty much it, although I'd recommend first disconnecting the shock absorbers from the vertical links, followed by disconnecting the spring ends from those vertical links. Then it's a much easier job of unbolting the six nuts that hold down the spring plate without the spring jumping up and biting you. ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 herald948 wrote:That's pretty much it, although I'd recommend first disconnecting the shock absorbers from the vertical links, followed by disconnecting the spring ends from those vertical links. Then it's a much easier job of unbolting the six nuts that hold down the spring plate without the spring jumping up and biting you. ??)Agreed, defo better to take all the loads off the spring, you will really struggle to get the studs to line up with the tappings in the diff otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 1504 wrote:I seem to be bombarding this board with questions - sorry!Oh, and no need to apologise, that what the forum is for. If no one asked any questions, it would be really dull! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResinRocket Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Thanks a lot chaps, I'll disconnect the spring as suggested. I have a rear wheelbearing to do too, but without the special tool I don't think I'll get far - I know not to use normal hub pullers on it. I'll try some heat and hammers but if it doesn't go, I'll remove the driveshaft and see if my local garage will press it out for me. Might as well do that job while I'm around the back end! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 I doubt your local garage will have the special Triumph hub pulling tool either. If they have some way of spreading the load over the whole hub and avoiding distortion it'll be OK, but if they just whack a normal hub puller on and wind it up, you'll be looking at a new hub. Best talk to them first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResinRocket Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 I was going to see if they had a press to use on it, but I will check first that they won't just go at it with a 3-leg puller! It's not a job I'm looking forward to tackling, to be honest.I've watched a video of someone using the proper Churchill tool, it makes it so easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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