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Lowering Block Fitting ......


CHRIS211083

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Ok, so my Spitfire has had positive camber on the rear end now for just over a year. Ive been waiting for the rear spring to settle in. However after +8,000 miles there has been no change. So i went about a fix for the handling. The Lowering block was the obvious solution but what size??? In the end i looked at my ride height and the fact that  Jigsaw only supply's a 1" Block and decided to give it a go.

Here is the problem

This is the Kit......


I firstly Uncovered the inspection hatch, note the cut out in the fuel tank for access.


Here with the cover removed


I then jacked up the car and supported it on axle stands and removed the road wheels.


I then removed the Spring eye bolt and supported the ends of the springs with a pair of socket extension bars as not to let the spring put pressure on the brake pipes. I then proceeded to loosen the nuts securing the spring in a circular motion as not to stress any one nut or stud. I then removed the remaining studs using two nuts tightened against each other.


Once all were removed i then test installed the lowering block. Unfortunately it didn't fit. It was approximately 2mm to wide at either side and would not fit in the grooves. So i removed the offending edges with a grinding disc.


Next was to fit the new longer studs into the original holes. Using the same two bolt technique all were installed but one stud was found to be a bit bent but it went in with a little bit of effort.



I then proceeded to fit the top plate and tighten all the bolts to the point were all the threads were on the stud. I then went to the Spring eye bolts and refitted these and then returned to the spring plate. However i encountered another problem at this point. The nuts went tight yet the spring was not seated yet.


I then reversed the procedure so far and upon inspection of the lowering block it was missing a hole in the centre for the spring centre bolt head. Thank fully it had made its mark on the block and so the hole was drilled.


Not very pretty but i didn't have the correct size drill so used the largest i had and reamed the hole larger.


I then redid the procedure as before however this time the spring seated correctly and the bolts were tightened. I then used a small angle grinder with a thin cutting disc to remove the excess stud that stops the inspection cover closing.


Next i applied a small amount of sealant to the hatch and secured it. I then fitted the road wheels and lowered the car. I then rolled the car back and forth to settle the suspension and then tightened the Spring eye bolts and tightened the wheel nuts. On inspection the results are very good. Not too much negative camber  but just a little under no load.


And from the side the wheel sits really nicely in its arch.



However the biggest surprise came from the improvement in the handling. Even with crappy "west" brand tyres the car goes like its on rails. Im so happy with it and all just in time for Drive it day.

However unfortunately i will be giving Jigsaw a ring on Monday as the block was a very poor fit and needed modifying. Ill inform Mark and hopefully no one else will suffer with these issues. After all this should only take 45mins from start to finish by a Confident mechanic but because of the issues it took 3 hrs instead, Not happy. However I must admit the change is amazing and probably one of the most noticeable changes ive made so far. If anyone has too much positive camber like myself with a new spring or re-con spring then don't hesitate. Get yourself a 1" lowering block.

Chris.






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I've fitted a couple (a 1" and 3/4") and both have been made properly. Both had a hole in the middle, and both were a perfect fit in the diff slot. They have to be to locate the spring properly. I suggest that you return the block to the supplier with some force - I mean, did no one notice that the machinist had forgotten the hole in the middle? Or check the basic dimensions?

Best I stop now before engaging rant mode. Nice car by the way, I love the shape of a round tail with a hard top.

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Hi Chris

I also fitted a one inch lowering block yesterday to my GT6, and like you say didn't take long to fit. It had a whole in the centre and although tight, pulled down perfectly into the diff. Very annoying, sorry you had that hassle. Car looks good that little bit lower and like you say improves the handling. I bought the block from Canleys.

Cheers

Blue

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Its a good car, just ruff round the edges. However the block now works as it should but others don't have 10years experience as a Mechanic, so ill give Jigsaw a call for their sake as i like Mark. Hes helped me out before and hopefully this wont happen again.

Chris.

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Nice! That looks a whole lot better and it looks like you made a decent job of modifying the block!

Bill (rarebits) has just posted on his blog about an inspection cover he's produced that will fit over the extended studs. Might save a bit of time and effort for anyone else doing this job!

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willcolumbine wrote:
Bill (rarebits) has just posted on his blog about an inspection cover he's produced that will fit over the extended studs.


Just to clarify, the cover I'm producing is intended for the Herald and Vitesse. It has to be said that it looks very much like the Spitfire plate, but i't's not designed for or tested on that model.

In the next week I'll do a trial on my Spitfire 1500, and if it fits, all well and good. If not, a specific cover for the Spitfire will be forthcoming in the next couple of months,

Cheers,
Bill.

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I've just fitted a 1/2" block from Canleys. now reading these posts i'm wondering if i should have gone for a bigger one...

I also had to widen the middle hole slightly as it was a bit too tight. however as i have a later spring on a Mk3 diff i assumed that might be the problem.

I've yet to lower it back onto the road as waiting for a diff seal, can't wait.

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2057 wrote:
I've just fitted a 1/2" block from Canleys. now reading these posts i'm wondering if i should have gone for a bigger one...


I fitted a 1/2" block to my rotoflex Spitfire, then upgraded to 3/4". Now I'm wondering whether I should have gone to 1"?  :-/

I didi'nt want to go straight to the extreme, but instead to try fine tuning the setup.

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OK, update on the spring access panels.
I've been working on my Spitfire this morning, so I took the opportunity to test-fit one of my modified covers. The goo news is that it fits perfectly!

My current Spitfire is a late 1500, and I found that it's original cover is modified compared to the earlier ones, in that the the two rearmost screws are replaced by a welded lip. This will explain the different part numbers for an apparently identical panel. This lip allows the cover to be slid into place and retained by only the frontmost screws, less awkward with the petrol tank in place. With my cover you lose this slight advantage, but the two fixing holes are still provided in the floor of the car. On the other hand you gain a good half-inch of clearance, which with the clearance which already exists will give about 1" clear for fitting a spacer block.

So in short, the same cover is fine for all Heralds, Vitesses, Spitfires and GT6s. If we find that any cars need even greater clearance, I will create a tool to produce an even deeper cover.

Cheers,
Bill.

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I had the same issues when fitting my spacing block took lots of faffing to sort it, ended up filing the flanges on the block for a good fit, I seem to also remember having to turn down the locating peg on my swing spring kit so it engaged properly, also modified the access hatch under the fuel tank so it wouldn't foul the suspension.  :)

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heraldcoupe wrote:
OK, update on the spring access panels.
I've been working on my Spitfire this morning, so I took the opportunity to test-fit one of my modified covers. The good news is that it fits perfectly!


Cool! I suspected they were compatible but it's good to have it confirmed and the difference in part numbers explained!

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Thing  to remember, your shocks may bottom out now, as the movement has been changed.
and what little move ment there was has gone by an inch,

tip for  putting one in /out of on a rot set up , the spring will fly up, AND it wont go back down untill you got the bottom links off,
remedy, put some woood chocks in the spring tunnel, this will stop the spring going right to the top,
so you can get the studs /nuts back on to pull it back down,
they only need to be about 1 inch high,

Chriss, the rear track will most likely be out  now,, as the angle of the trailing arm will have altered,.
so giving moer toe in,

Marcus

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