1961 948 Lowering Block [how to fit}

[davidb5964]

Morning
A bit new to this so sorry to start with.
Before I drive it again I want to fit the 3/4" lowering block to the rear axle spring on top of diff to get rid of some of the negative camber.I have the block and the studs but is there an easy way to fit without stripping everything out?
If not could be a long job for 6 studs
Thanks
Dave
location Warwick

[Keith]

A lowering block will reduce camber making it more negative. if you've got too much neg camber the only cure is a stronger spring I'm afraid.

K

[davidb5964]

Got that wrong then, told you I was new. Wheels are in at the bottom being an early one. Told a lowering block would improve it ?

[Jonny-Jimbo]

Hi Dave,

Firstly, welcome from a fellow Warwickian! I'm hoping to get a local area meet going soon, so keep your eyes peeled for that (won't have to be a club member to attend)

So, to your Herald;

If the wheels are 'in' at the bottom this is positive camber, and if they are 'out' at the bottom this is negative camber.
Fitting a lowering block will give more negative camber, so the wheels are 'out' at the bottom.
If you want to reduce negative camber, check that there isn't already a spacer block, if there isn't, then the only option is to fit a stronger spring - if this is what you wish to do, I can assist as I have some spare springs in store.

Also, a 3/4" lowering block will not lower the car by 3/4", it will probably be more as it is not a direct ratio of 'block height' to 'ride height'.

[davidb5964]

Thanks
Yep so it does need a block as in at the bottom.
I am a member but working shifts at the moment so may or may not be at the meets.
Was it your herald that was spotted Easter time by West Street?
Anyhow I still need to work out how to fit this blessed block
Dave

[Jonny-Jimbo]

Hi Dave,

No, not mine - I posted about it on the forum though. I liked the look of it myself though. My cars currently don't live in Warwick. If you ever see a loud, rusty old BMW 5 Series that's probably me in the daily.

[herald948]

I can't think of any "short cuts" to this job. Essentially, you follow the workshop manual procedures for removing and replacing the spring. Period.

[Pete Lewis]

if you can remove the studs witha stud box or two nuts locked on then with care and the car supported you can fiddle the block in under the spring
witha 3/4 block you are likely to need longer studs , canley sell them.

there could be load on the spring  which may sit up against the floor and can be a fight to get her back on to fit the top plate

its a suck and see but its possible  did mine but long ago.

if the new  studs are very long they can then foul on the tin cover ..makes a lovely racket...  then its space the plate or use a thick rubber to cover the hole .

Pete

[heraldcoupe]

My first thought is to wonder why you have positive camber. 948s aren't noted for sitting high, at least not with their original springs. A new rear spring can intorduce the condition, but in many cases it's a symptom if seized trunnion bushes preventing the back end from settling properly, or badly set rear wheel tracking can cause the car to ride up when going in one direction or the other.

Cheers,
Bill.

[Nick Moore]

It's not hard to fit a block.
Firstly you need to jack the rear of the car up and support it on axle stands or similar. You'll need to remove the rear wheels.

You can access the top of the diff by removing the plate in the boot. With the top of the diff in view, unscrew the nuts holding the spring top plate on, and then remove the six studs using the two-nut method. Now you should be able to lift the spring out of its recess in the top of the diff. Once you have it high enough, slide in the alloy block between the diff case and spring. It should sit neatly in the diff case's recess and the spring should in turn sit in the recess in the top of the block. Some need to be machined slightly though.

With thinner blocks, you can use the same studs. With thicker blocks though, you'll need longer studs. I read somewhere that cylinder head studs are the right thread and long enough - and certainly strong enough. In any case, once the alloy block is in place, the studs back in and the steel top plate bolted down, you can put the wheels back on and lower the car. Remember that it won't immediately assume a lower stance - you need to roll it back and forward a few times for the the wheels to find their new level.

As Bill says though, you really should check the rear suspension and replace any bushes that are worn or seized. You might not even need a block.

[davidb5964]

Morning
Thanks for all your help,I completed the task last night and now looks far better. All of the rear suspension has recently been changed, before I got the car,but I did check and all nice and free but worth the check.I have fitted new studs from Canleys so just need to pack the cover plate as they are a bit long and I don't really want to cut them. Thanks again
Dave

[Pete Lewis]

You now need to check the rear tracking, its 150 lbs on each seat to get the static ride height
Sacks of sand or get the family in,
two straight edges on a brick to rise above the tyre bulge and measure between them

aim for 0 to 2mm toe in  adjust with shims or c washers inbetween the tie rod and the rear outrigger

Pete

[davidb5964]

Thanks Pete will put in on the list

[pimp my vit]

Nick said...It's not hard to fit a block.
Firstly you need to jack the rear of the car up and support it on axle stands or similar. You'll need to remove the rear wheels.

I just ordered this kit from Canley Nick, when you say use axle stands do you mean on the suspension or car body, what I mean is the diff and spring just hanging or supported?

Cheers

[Nick Moore]

The car body needs to be supported, on axle stands, ramps, piles of wood... whatever you have. The weight of the car must be off the rear wheels so that the rear suspension is unloaded and free to be manipulated.