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Hugh

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jcarruthers wrote:
Obviously you need crank sensor- coolant is easy and air isn't going to be problematic? Is there anything else I'm missing?



didn't we have this same conversation in a thread a couple of months ago :-/ :-/ :-/?  I am sure that i was told that we will also need the throttle position sensor.  anyhow lots more work than just megajolt

I would love to set mine up with megajolt using my MS1 ecu but in my opinion it's not much more work to go the hole hog and squirt it! :) :)

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Throttle pedal is only used for acceleration enrichment as far as I know - so I don't see why that would effect ignition. The spark operates without it quite easy - as my roaming idle proves.

So not a whole lot more difficult than megajolt - a couple of temp sensors.

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jcarruthers wrote:
Throttle pedal is only used for acceleration enrichment as far as I know - so I don't see why that would effect ignition. The spark operates without it quite easy - as my roaming idle proves.

So not a whole lot more difficult than megajolt - a couple of temp sensors.


i am sure that Nick(sorry if not Nick) told me i needed  the tps connected.  This was the main reason for me not progressing the spark only install.  

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Hi Richard yes i will need to modify the sum tidy out the garage today and put the car on stands. We had a new kitchen and I had some of the units and solid wood worktops put in the garage for a new work area which is ready for me and Dom to use when I am fully able. ;D

Few photos attached

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thescrapman wrote:
Hugh

You've painted it pink, how could you??

Kept that to yourself didn't you!

I have a garage kitted out with kitchen units as well, except mine are full of crap and I can't get to them... :-(

Cheers

Colin
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D My secret is out :) Na pictures taken with my Blackberry phone this is an old photo taken with a camera :)

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339 wrote:


i am sure that Nick(sorry if not Nick) told me i needed  the tps connected.  This was the main reason for me not progressing the spark only install.  


You don't need the TPS provided you are using manifold pressure as the engine load sensor.  It is only used for acceleration enrichment and flood clear which are injection only functions.  Would probably be wise to put something in the circuit though, even if it's just a 1k resistor.

In fact I discovered this evening that I've been driving the PI around with the TPS connector hanging off.  Only noticed 'cause I had the laptop connected and the throttle position dial wasn't doing anything.  Obviously my AE settings need work........

Nick

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Can anyone tel me if I could use a head that has a depth of 3.16 with a compression ration of 10.5:1 to work with a higher lift cam instead of my current head with a depth of 4.42 domed type.

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908 wrote:
Can anyone tel me if I could use a head that has a depth of 3.16 with a compression ration of 10.5:1 to work with a higher lift cam instead of my current head with a depth of 4.42 domed type.


Come on chaps can someone help me with some advice :)

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Sorry Hugh I'm lost. 2000 or 2.5.

Don't forget if oversize pistons are used the volume goes up.

You'll have to work out the volumes of the Combustion chamber yourself, withe a beurette and a sheet of perspex.  ;)  Then calculate and add in the volume in the head gasket.


All I know is that a 2000 with dome tops uses the same combustion chamber volume as a 2.5PI with flat tops. That should allow you to calculate the volume of the dome if you need to.


Chris Witor did a really good article in the 2000 /2.5 Register Technical notes on calculating the CR of 6 pot engines.  

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Richard_B wrote:

Chris Witor did a really good article in the 2000 /2.5 Register Technical notes on calculating the CR of 6 pot engines.  




Or you could cheat and use this little tool,

It was posted on one of the threads about compression ratios.

Sorry I don't remember who posted it but a very useful little program for those who want to work things out the quick way ;)

Take no notice of the title it works for 6 pots too!!!

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Richard_B wrote:
Sorry Hugh I'm lost. 2000 or 2.5.

Don't forget if oversize pistons are used the volume goes up.

You'll have to work out the volumes of the Combustion chamber yourself, withe a beurette and a sheet of perspex.  ;)  Then calculate and add in the volume in the head gasket.


All I know is that a 2000 with dome tops uses the same combustion chamber volume as a 2.5PI with flat tops. That should allow you to calculate the volume of the dome if you need to.


Chris Witor did a really good article in the 2000 /2.5 Register Technical notes on calculating the CR of 6 pot engines.  


Sorry Chaps it's a 2500cc head with 78 CFM and 10.5:1 .

Hugh

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Not sure about all that EFI Double Dutch, but nobody seems to have mentioned the cutouts in the bottom of the cylinders to clear the wider arc and greater angularity of a 2.5 crank.  Mine had them although it was a 2L.  Which is why I looked into it.

Martin

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1078 wrote:
Not sure about all that EFI Double Dutch, but nobody seems to have mentioned the cutouts in the bottom of the cylinders to clear the wider arc and greater angularity of a 2.5 crank.  Mine had them although it was a 2L.  Which is why I looked into it.

Martin


The cut outs are there on th 2 ltr because the same block is used for the 2.5.
To standardise the block.

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Richard_B wrote:
Yes, but no but.

The MkII Vitesse and GT6 blocks are the same as a MkI PI

The MkIII GT6 uses the same block as the MkII PI Saloon and TR6.




So any of these should have the cut-outs for the extra throw.


I CLEARLY refered to Mk2 engine.

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I am guessing that I will need to replace all the bearings when I put the TR6 crankshaft I have in my GT6 block.
Can anyone tell me the original part numbers or the VANDERVELL BEARINGS part number please. :)
Also has anyone got the O/D and I/D sizes for the standard main bearings please :)
Thanks Hugh :)

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Yes, new bearings are a good idea.  Are you sure you know the crank size? Big end and mains are not always ground the same (big ends sometimes reground to a greater undersize than mains most commonly) so measure if in doubt.

Vandervell....... well, you'll get the mains ok.  For the big ends, you need luck, patience or very deep pockets.  King tri-metal are ok (also appear as County heavy duty) or ACL Duraglide (also trimetal) if you can find them.

Nick

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I would fit glacier big ends rather than King trimetal - I believe the quality (ie sizings and finish) is superior even if in theory the material is inferior - I recently reshelled my White PI - mega thrashed for the last 7 years and found it had Glaciers all round rather than VP - I think we mistakenly fitted Glacier bearings which came in VP boxes and didn't check closely enough - this was before internet forum bearing paranoia set in. ;)
Those glacier looked fine and the crank was mint - so VP mains and Glacier big ends - thrash the engine silly and change the oil and filter every six months regardlessof use  8)

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lagerzok wrote:
I would fit glacier big ends rather than King trimetal - I believe the quality (ie sizings and finish) is superior even if in theory the material is inferior - I recently reshelled my White PI - mega thrashed for the last 7 years and found it had Glaciers all round rather than VP - I think we mistakenly fitted Glacier bearings which came in VP boxes and didn't check closely enough - this was before internet forum bearing paranoia set in. ;)
Those glacier looked fine and the crank was mint - so VP mains and Glacier big ends - thrash the engine silly and change the oil and filter every six months regardlessof use  8)



Sounds like you have well and truly tested them then  ;D

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