Hugh Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 thebrookster wrote:I likes!! Like various others here, I prefer the longer stroke engines for the torque characteristics, hence I am building a 1500 for my spitfire. I shall watch your build with interest Hugh, right up my street :)Seeing as you say you are only after a moderate power increase, concentrating rather on the torque, then a simple crank/piston change is ideal. Only other things I would consider is a mild cleaning up of the ports (I really have got the bug here) and a decent manifold if you don't already have something (if you can get one, and don't mind the price GT's 6 cylinder jobby really seems the biscuit, a simple bolt on that will give nice improvements). If you decide to play with the head, give me a shout and I can send some stuff your way that can help, nothing major just simple work that can be done at home to improve flow.This is one of the reasons I like Triumphs so much, you can get amazing gains for so little work.Thinking on the torque side, anyone ever considered putting a small turboed diesel into a Triumph :P That could result in some interesting results!!Cheers,Phil Thanks Phil for the advice I will let you know if I do any work on the headCheers Hugh ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Why are TR6 pistons required are the 2.5 pi saloon pistons different or can I use them as well :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 They are the same but someone might charge you more for "TR6" ones ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thought TR6 would be more common, hopefully cheaper. Paddocks have most sizes (hopefully!) at £140+vat, dig around they may be cheaper :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Revingtonhttp://www.revingtontr.com/shop/basket.asp?mscssid=24T4EL3VGE3P8PJJGJRPRGQSL6ADDJK9&PageType=Witor http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=148118-K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie55 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Hugh, great that you are doing a 2.5 upgrade, best way to go :) Royboy mentioned about the sump mods, so I added a few pics below to show what needs done and how I went about it. The other way is to gently hamer the recesses on a sandbag. Either way, you need to use the GT6 sump and mod that to clear the cranks ends.Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 That looks good but is a lot of work compared to the percussive method :-) A hammer works just as well and you only need to "relieve" the sump - ie put a couple of dents in it, it's a 15 minute job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie55 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Jason wrote:That looks good but is a lot of work compared to the percussive method :-) A hammer works just as well and you only need to "relieve" the sump - ie put a couple of dents in it, it's a 15 minute job.Yes you are correct, but I love fabricating metal and welding so did it that way just for the fun of it 8) I had finished my spitfire shell rebuild some months earlier and was beginning to miss my mig :B Also, thought it would be good to explore alternative ways of doing the mod and to share that with the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 I like that sump, in another 20 years someone will have a picture of it on the forum & it will be getting the "what car is this thing from" treatment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 429 wrote:Yes you are correct, but I love fabricating metal and welding so did it that way just for the fun of it 8) I had finished my spitfire shell rebuild some months earlier and was beginning to miss my mig :B Also, thought it would be good to explore alternative ways of doing the mod and to share that with the forum. Thanks Mate looks good as always ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks to all the guys who have gave advise on the pistons and where to find them :)Cheers Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie55 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Hey Hugh, If you do go this route with your GT6 engine, have you thought about the TR6 head and if so make sure you go for the 150bhp set-up. Or are you going to go the squirty efi route?Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 429 wrote:Hey Hugh, If you do go this route with your GT6 engine, have you thought about the TR6 head and if so make sure you go for the 150bhp set-up. Or are you going to go the squirty efi route?Roy I think my head should be alright and I think I will go triple webers route :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie55 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 908 wrote: I think my head should be alright and I think I will go triple webers route :)I like the sound of that :) :) :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Anyone know what the relative costs of a Weber installation and a PI installation are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 similar, both ££££But £500-£1500, depending etc once everything sorted (unless you get lucky)EFi is a real contender in terms of costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 lagerzok wrote:Revingtonhttp://www.revingtontr.com/shop/basket.asp?mscssid=24T4EL3VGE3P8PJJGJRPRGQSL6ADDJK9&PageType=Witor http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=148118-K??) ??) ??) Multiple expletives deleted, with bells on! So if you buy a set of cast pistons from Revington they'll cost 396.24 pounds ex VAT, and from Mr Witor, 129.50 quid. Three times the price - this must be the famous 'TR tax'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 Well I fell lucky and got a set of standard TR6 OEM pistons with very little use as chap that sold them had to have a rebore soon after fitting them now fingers crossed they fit one of the blocks I will have soon :-/ Still at £100 for the set they were worth the punt. When some of you write EFI is that the standard TR6 Pi or an after market EFi setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie55 Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hugh, The EFI they are referring to is Megasquirt and another which I forget. The standard TR6 PI is a Lucas mechanical fuel system, that's what I've just rebuilt on my Vitesse estate. By all accounts, EFI is a great way to go but does involve a fair amount of mods. At least with the PI its a fairly straight forward bolt on job. I think Nick Jones has just done this on his recently purchased PI saloon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Would be a nice little project for you Hugh :)I am sure you could access suitably skilled chaps to do a bit of the machining, the rest should be a well trodden (or at least 3 people, probably more) route. See Andy Thompsons blog, and James's. plus of course the original, in the form of Nicks. I really should add Marcus, his uses a different ECU though. Plus the big big benefit of better fuel economy :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 I like the sound of using original Triumph Pi system and the EFi sounds interesting too. As I don't use my car a great deal ( no use at all for 1 year now) ;D what I mean is I do not do more than 2000 miles in a year so if I do go for one I am leaning towards original Triumph Pi I will look out for what I need if some one can give me a list of what is required ;) I still like the thought of triple webers the noise is fantactic ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Horses for courses, but I would either go PI or EFI. I understand that triple Webers can be awkard to setup correctly and I have never liked the way the front TT weber inlet sits lower than the other two. PI you need the pedastal, distributor drive, metering unit, throttle bodies, injectors, PI pump & filter (Bosch or Lucas), preasure relief valve, inertial switch, plenum chamber and various pipes (and odds & sods).EFI will be more economical I think Nick was getting well over 35mpg, PI is already designed for the engine and the installation is quite simple. I will probably EFI one of my cars but the others will stay PI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Vitesse averages 35 mpg and can better 40mpg if I'm kind to it (rare). That is 2L although I have been accused of having a 2.5 more than once..... No real reason a 2.5 can't be as good, even better if the gearing is also raised to suit. Can't say what the PIe does yet as I haven't driven it so far. Could happen this afternoon. Just undoing some scary bodges to the wiring under the dash.....If converting from scratch, I'd recommend EFI every time. If you want to spend loads of money and have the sidedraft carbs look/sound, just buy the Jenvey throttle bodies.If you must have carbs, for goodness sake do your homework and get the right Dellortos - much better than Webers - especially for road use. Either carb route will be extremely expensive once all the carbs, linkages and tuning work has been done.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 Okay some very interesting comments and advise what is required for the EFI route then pleaseThanks Hugh :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 See my signature.Also, if you're going to EFI— why bother with a 2.5?It really adds so much drivability, save your money, time and effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.