GarthT Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 took the front running gear apart, got it shot and powder coated, put it all back together today with Canleys trunnionless kit, everything went swimmingly till I came to put the road wheels back on.I'd put new wheel studs in, they are a bit longer as the others didn't have many threads covered with my alloys.I didn't whack them in while the hub was off the brake disc as I hoped the wheel nuts would pull them in, yes, that worked for one side and three of the other side, but the last one decided to spin and I cannot get it out, or the wheel nut off, or the wheel off for that matter. Any suggestions? I can get to the castle hub nut, but the caliper gets in the way of taking the it all off......or am I driving round with three wheel nuts in for a bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callyspoy Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 I had this with a rear hub on my old Minor. I ended up getting the bar from my trolley jack and wedging it behind something suitable and applying pressure to the inside of the tyre.You may have tried that already, or may not be keen as you would probably scratch your new shiny bits...but i certainly wouldn't roll around with only 3 unless in an emergency.(as an aside, obviously where yours is on the front, you would have to turn the wheel so that it is on full lock so that you can get good pressure on the lever. Oh, and only have the other 3 nuts on very loosely!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npanne Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Can you get a pry / crow bar or claw part of a hammer on the loose stud from the front? Just need to pull it through enough to engage the splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarthT Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 cally, will try that tomorrow, npanne, I probably could, but I think it's stripped the splines from the hub and not the stud as it seems to be fully home, as when I stick my finger throught the hole on the alloy I can feel it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npanne Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 In that case, is there room to grind off the nut with a trusty angle grinder, then push the remainder of the stud back through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 This has worked for me two times already :o :'(Take the other wheel nuts off and use something to wedge the inner face of the wheel away from the hub protect. You then need someone to pull the outwards and you undo the wheel nut.I used washers with a slot cut in them and taped together to wedge the inner wheel face to the hub face ;)Make sure you protect the face of the alloy.But most important make sure the car is well supported as you will be pulling the wheel sideways a lot ( I am sure you know this anyway ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarthT Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 sounds like a good idea Hugh, the levering thing is the way to go I reckon, thanks.npanne, possibly, that will be number 2 or 3 attempt after the others fail. I'm not that bothered about damaging the alloys as they are knackered themselves.I wonder, if I could get the mig torch in at the back, I could put a snot between the stud and the hub to hold the stud still, then I could at least get the wheel off.....(think) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Or try strong lock tight and lever the wheel.I put all my new studs in with red lock tight just in case. I know what a real pain in the butt it is for you to mess around with that wheel nut mate having been through it twice myself ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 This is a risk with most substitute studs, that have a different spline pattern to the originals.If you have the kit a spot of weld where stud head meets hub will keep it from rotating while you do it up, and then friction will take over.On Vitesse/GT6 hubs, the usual replacement studs have heads too wide to seat behind the hub. A slot cut in the ehad allows them to do so, and of course it is then impossible for the stud to turn.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Wheel off, rattle gun on nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarthT Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 well, I finally got it off.I couldn't get the mig behind, tried an air gun, still nowt.My mate Joe (joecr on here) suggested putting a dot punch mark on the nut head, drilling through the nut and into the thread with progressively bigger drill bits each time till I destroyed the thread, the nut itself was soft as shit, but the stud was a different matter. Got about a 1/3rd of the way into the stud and it loosened. I had to do this with two of them.Thanks for all your advice lads, it's always encouraging to hear others have been in that same frustrating position as well.I then put new studs in and snotted them with a bit of weld, cast stuff doesn't really weld very well so I really need a new hub, possible two, anyone got some lying around...?a few pictures of the progress, still a few little jobs to do.before, with trunnions and seriously worn out springs/shocksbits shot and coated'several' hours later, after a test drive.....hence the dirt... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Nice job! I'm re-doing all my front (and back) suspension over the winter, new poly bushes etc.....the shot and powder coating seems the best way......save trying to strip and re-paint myself!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarthT Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Mazz, it really makes it look good and you'll not have to touch it again. I got two uprights, two springs, two caliper brackets, two steering arm brackets, the anti roll bar and two clamps, plus four top and two bottom wishbones done for £50. Absolute bargain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I went all out and bought new springs n dampers, but definately will get the other items blasted and powder coated, looks very professional! They're currently covered in that black textured underseal paint...including all the nuts n bolts I need to remove!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarthT Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Mazz, I would still get the new springs shot and coated, mine were also new but they had a very poor coating of paint I gave them about a year before they would look like the old ones. They couldn't coat the shocks as they are under pressure and the process involves 200'C heat but offered to cold paint them, they looked reasonable so I didn't get them done.When re-assembling, a proper made-for-Triumph spring compressor is recommended once you have them powder coated as the hook type may scratch the coating. I got mine from a bloke on eBay, about £40 with postage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 @ Garth T, My brake back plate is looking in need of cleaning up too, would it be worth getting that powder coated too? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarthT Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Sorry Mazz, missed this one.Yes, personally I would get them done, as long as they aren't bent to bits.If they are knackered or you just fancy a bit of bling, get the stainless ones. I got mine from Canleys, but some eBay sellers offer them as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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