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Just Got My M12 Wheel Studs.....


Anthony

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Just bought a set of larger wheel studs but they don't have the taper on the end of the head

Do I need to put a taper onto them before fitting?

The knurling is more than deep enough not to require a taper, but I'm guessing its for clearance purposes?

I can't see there being and clearance problems on the front hubs

But do the rear studs need a taper putting on them to avoid their heads catching on anything?

Thought?

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Hi Anthony, you should know by now pictures speak a thousand words.....SO ADD ONE to show what you mean.

I think the only clearance issue is on the rear hub as the center is raised so I think all thats needed is a flat filing on one side so the new studs can seat straight. I'll show the process when I do it to my own car so don't worry. By the way whats happening with your car???? Not many updates or have I just missed them??? Is the body done yet???

Chris.

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2402 wrote:
........ By the way whats happening with your car???? Not many updates or have I just missed them??? Is the body done yet???

Chris.


Touchy subject at the minute mate :(

The car's back home, should be going to a different bodyshop for final finishing in the next month or two






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On the front studs you might need to grind a flat on the heads of the M12 studs you will see why when you come to do it. On the rear you "might" either have to remove hubs or cheat and drill a hole in each brake backplate. On my roto Gt6 I drilled said holes but on the Sixfire I did not need to.

Laurence

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63mm that's long and looking at photograph quite a long unthreaded shank too, are you using spacers ? I got a set from Canleys recently and they are 43mm and those will certainly be more than long enough, and no long shank on them either.
And you wo'nt need a champher on them just as I previously mentioned a single flat on the edge of the head of the stud.

Laurence

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Same as the ones I use,  Graystone  Engineering sell em,

On a roto rear, the sides need filed  to mek a flat on one side.
fronts Ok. use loctite  on the splines, just for peace of mind,
as the splines are slightly diff, but still a tight fit.



http://www.graystonengineering.com/wheelnutmenu.htm

M

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Nice Marcus an out of focus ruler even with my glasses on.

Fx sake Marcus it is 12 years since I put M12's in the Gt6 EFI car and 14 since I put them on the Sixfire so my memory is fading a little on the subject. But have a set to do on my old carb'd GT6.

L

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Hi Ant.

As per our PM chat, i just assumed you were going for the common fitment of the Freelander M12 studs.....sorry mate.

As Laurence mentioned the shank is too long for fitting the steelies on, the ones you have are for deeper hubs and I am 100% sure you will run out of thread or 'bottom out' before the wheel nut flange bites into the wheel as the steel wheel sits quite close to the hub.

If they were just for alloy wheels or you were fitting spacers they will be fine.

FYI the Freelander studs shank is suitable for alloys and steel wheels. I would send them back before you doctor them as running a die nut down them to lengthen the threads will be a proper pain and source the Freelander studs part no CLP9037L bud. And you will still have to cut them to length too if you want domed nuts with steel wheels....see pic of mine with the Freelander studs, steels and open ended nuts:



Heres a pic (thanks to Nick Jones) of the standard Triumph stud (left) and the Freelander stud (middle) and a standard MGF stud (right).....note the length of the shank.

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also keep an eye on the rear drums if the spline happens to protrude though the hub it can block the drum from sitting flush on the hub,
came across this the other day and we had to open up the drum stud holes for clearance, the hub face was also  bent from some previuos  life mishap and the hub ,drum face had to be skimmed in a lathe .

Pete

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There are these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-FORD-MONDEO-HIGH-TENSILE-WHEEL-STUDS-63mm-13-1mm-SPLINE-021c-/330908152469?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d0ba9b295


I went for these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-63mm-FORD-COMPETITION-WHEEL-STUD-BRISCA-F2-RACE-STOCK-CAR-021a-/230959842861?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c647862d

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-FORD-FIESTA-HIGH-TENSILE-COMPETITION-WHEEL-STUDS-63mm-13-1mm-SPLINE-021d-/330908162970?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d0ba9db9a

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6797 wrote:
Are the Ford ones the right spline size/pitch? I went for Freelander because they had imperial splines, but metric threads - I would have expected the Ford ones to be metric both ends?


You bought something like these I guess
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Freelander-Wheel-Stud-M12x1-5-63mm-long-/370630705642?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AFreelander&hash=item564b4fc1ea

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8017 wrote:
You bought something like these I guess
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Freelander-Wheel-Stud-M12x1-5-63mm-long-/370630705642?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AFreelander&hash=item564b4fc1ea


Like those, but not the same. I got them from AllMakes - the AllMakes ones have the shamfer on the shoulder - so they fit right in the Triumph hubs.

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I used freelander ones but had coarse splines. The couse splines effectively cut their own groove when the were pressed home. When torqued the studs wont be going anywhere.

However, make sure that you know whast type of nut you want for your stud!!!
I have slot alloys so needed a sleeved nut with shamfered washer..Which meant I had to cut down each stud - and as said they are made of hard stuff. I used bearmach studs.

Sleeved nuts meant that there is more thread availible as the nuts slot into the lug whole and over the thread instead on conventional nuts that use a shamfer to 'so-called' centralise the wheel when tightened.

Hope this makes sense :P

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I went for uprated Ford Race/Rally studs on advice from my good buddy RoyBoy  the suds have a course splines too I used loctite thread lock. I have 15 inch alloys with open end anodised alloy wheel nuts.  :) No problems with them. :)

Sorry no pictures now but very soon  ;)

Its really just a matter of choice, cost and availability. :)

  

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/ferny/20130712_105948_zps58a9cf14.jpg


Http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v153/ferny/20120712_132811_zps14cffc59.jpg


Here are how mine look fitted after being trimmed down. Big photos as I'm using my phone.

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2402 wrote:


If so where did you get the nuts from. They look quite short. Just what im after.

Chris.


These what you are looking for Chris ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16x-Shallow-Slimline-Open-Ended-Wheel-Nuts-M12-x-1-25-Nissan-Subaru-/280978993336?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item416ba730b8

Laurence

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