soooty Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 can someone tell me where i can get some longer studs for my mk2 gt6 (and with the right nuts) . either 5 to 10mm longer would be okay. If they are longer can they still be pulled through without having to take the hub off?? ah also.. I have tried to do my own research but get confused with that old bastad archaic dimensioning system which means nothin to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Give these guys a ring,and have a chat http://www.speedshack.co.uk/Wheelnuts.htm They were very helpful when I changed mine from 3/8" to 7/16" Depending how long you get, you may need to remove hub.and Chiill ! your on holiday! you metric ist ! ;D :)http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/conversion%20charts.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Jigsaw carry longer studsChangeover on rear, easy .Knock through old and feed new through and draw on with wheel nutsFront , you may have to remove the hubs and split hub from disc.......I had to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irish44j Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 just get some Land Rover Freelander studs - they are a direct fit, are long, and are strong. And not very expensive. The only modification you need to do is grind down the edge of the back chamfer to make a bit of clearance for the rear hubs.Highly recommended!stock vs. some thicker ones that a Steve Downing makes (too short for my liking) vs. the Freelander oneson the car...direct fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 The studs shown by irish (2"?) may be fitted as he describes.If you want/need longer ones (2 1/2") they won't clear the brake back plate.You need to cut a hole in the plate, as detailed here: http://www.totallytriumph.net/dcforum/DCForumID57/9.shtmlAnd irish - when you mention grinding a sector off the stud head, don't you mean FRONT studs?AND, you will observe from irish's excellent pics that the splines on the original and new studs are not the same.No problem to insert them, but they may not seat securely.Best to add a small spot of weld to lock the head to the hub after the stud is fully inserted.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 hm. last 2 posts quite useful thanks.. as i live nr a landrover spares i'll probably try some of the freelander studs. when fitted will the wheel just go over the studs and then have more regular nuts fitted? the nuts i currently use go both 'over the stud' and have a outer diameter that 'goes into the whee'l- do people know what i mean? I'm only doing the rear wheels- i want to fit some spacers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilnaz Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I think you are describing sleeve nuts Sooty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 neilnaz wrote:I think you are describing sleeve nuts Sootyyep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 dam. been thinkin. i thought i needed say 10mm longer studs in order to fit a 10mm spacer. however, if i'm fitting regular nuts instead of sleeved ones they would need to be much longer still- so that they protrude out of the wheel when the wheel is fitted. at present the triumph studs stick out only about 2mm from the wheel which doesnt matter with sleeved nuts. mayb the landy studs (@1.85inch) wont be long enough if i'm fitting spacers. what else can i get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 What wheels/wheel nuts you using Sooty? Wheels that use sleeve nuts can't generally use anything else but you can get sleeve nuts in various sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 they are cobra supaslots. they have sleeved nuts, and a removable collar of 5mm thckness that goes around the sleeved part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irish44j Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 JohnD wrote:The studs shown by irish (2"?) may be fitted as he describes.If you want/need longer ones (2 1/2") they won't clear the brake back plate.You need to cut a hole in the plate, as detailed here: http://www.totallytriumph.net/dcforum/DCForumID57/9.shtmlI had to do this as well, these would not clear the backplate. Which is fine, actually. I had planned to drill vent holes in the backplate anyways.JohnD wrote:And irish - when you mention grinding a sector off the stud head, don't you mean FRONT studs?I'll have to double-check, but I'm pretty sure it was the back ones. Because i remember I had to pull them all back out through the hole in the back plate, which was JUST big enough to fit them at a certain angle...so it was a pain. I had already seated 4 of them and then realized that they were rubbing against the spindle....I just had to grind the edge of the head just a bit - you can see they're already that way on the shorter ones in the middle from Steve Downing.JohnD wrote:AND, you will observe from irish's excellent pics that the splines on the original and new studs are not the same.No problem to insert them, but they may not seat securely.correct, you have to be careful to seat them in straight. A couple of them got a bit crooked on the first wheel i did so I had to tap them back out and redo with a different clamping setup that pulled them through vertical. I believe the splines are "every other" compared to the stock ones (it's hard to measure them), so they actually will seat correctly if you have them perfectly straight, or so it seemed.JohnD wrote:Best to add a small spot of weld to lock the head to the hub after the stud is fully inserted.Johnnever a bad idea, but based on how tight they are to get in, I don't see them spinning. If they do, then I'll get out the welding stuff :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 CharlieB wrote:What wheels/wheel nuts you using Sooty? Wheels that use sleeve nuts can't generally use anything else but you can get sleeve nuts in various sizes.dam it. why can i only use sleeve nuts. if i'm fitting the longer and thickers studs then there wont be room for a sleeve to fit in the wheel, the hole will only be big enough for the wider studs to go through? cant i do as i was planning and then fit normal tapered wheel nuts on it?.. or do they have to mate with the wheel in a particular way, shurely a hole is just a hole. this is gettin very complicated. appreciate all the replies thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 mayb i should go with my first and cheaper plan which is to turn the tyre around so that the valve is on the other side and then put the wheel on backwards? that gives a great offset and pushes the whel out right where i want it. the surface of the wheel is flat on both sides so i can't see how this might be dangerous. i'm sure you cleverer peeps will tell me if its daft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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