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wide rear  wheels


macca x

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2580 wrote:
I see in the photo's that your car and that of PETER.CROW both have negative camber on the rear can you advise me how this is achieved as i do not like the look of the standard positive camber on my 13/60.



My car is a Mk2 Vitesse, so it has lower wishbones. The rear simply has a 1" lowering block. The slight negative camber is pure geometry when the lowering block is fitted. However, in my case, the RH and LH are slightly different because the transverse spring is not quite centred :( I'm told it's a relatively easy fix - loosening the mounting bolts and tapping the spring sideways but I haven't been game to try it yet).

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Be careful when fitting a lowering block. I've a 1" one in mine. I now have the battery in the boot and some tools - the car is sitting on its stops on the back, no suspension travel. There's no fuel in the tank and no passengers in the car. I'm ok with that as I know (and have experienced) the issues that can cause. Bill, if you're doing those courier springs again, can I have one please?

You'll also need to lower the front as it'll look stupid and the handling won't be brilliant. Dead easy to do with a new set of springs and either buying some spring compressing hooks or borrowing them so you can change them..


1316 wrote:


My car is a Mk2 Vitesse, so it has lower wishbones. The rear simply has a 1" lowering block. The slight negative camber is pure geometry when the lowering block is fitted. However, in my case, the RH and LH are slightly different because the transverse spring is not quite centred :( I'm told it's a relatively easy fix - loosening the mounting bolts and tapping the spring sideways but I haven't been game to try it yet).


Are you certain? I'm sure mine has a pin in it which sits in a hole in the diff, although my memory has been said to be rubbish, I think. One side of mine is too high at the back and I've only just discovered it's down to the chassis being put back together badly by a previous owner.

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ferny wrote:
Be careful when fitting a lowering block. I've a 1" one in mine. I now have the battery in the boot and some tools - the car is sitting on its stops on the back, no suspension travel. There's no fuel in the tank and no passengers in the car. I'm ok with that as I know (and have experienced) the issues that can cause. Bill, if you're doing those courier springs again, can I have one please?

You'll also need to lower the front as it'll look stupid and the handling won't be brilliant. Dead easy to do with a new set of springs and either buying some spring compressing hooks or borrowing them so you can change them..




Are you certain? I'm sure mine has a pin in it which sits in a hole in the diff, although my memory has been said to be rubbish, I think. One side of mine is too high at the back and I've only just discovered it's down to the chassis being put back together badly by a previous owner.


Ferny
Not 100% certain. The back end was completely removed when I bought the car, to deal with rust in the chassis rail and to apply undersell. Like you, I understood that our cars have a locating pin. However, I've also be led to believe these are not tight fits, thus my intention to have the rear loosened and rechecked at some stage soon.

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1344 wrote:
I have fitted a spitfire swing spring.
I got the spring from a fellow member on here. The spring has been "messed about with"
I believe he told me that a couple of the leave had been "turned over" and instead of alll the springs being different there is now two the same lenth amongst them
There is no lowering fitted to my car,it's all down to the spring !
The wife's convertable is at standard height


From this at the rear

To this


when u replaced leaf spring was it a streight swap or did you need to modify anything,    

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5935 wrote:

when u replaced leaf spring was it a streight swap or did you need to modify anything,    



It's a streight swap.
If you do fit a swing spring you must fit a thicker front anti roll bar.

I would fit that first,it will(should)only take half an hour or so.

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ferny wrote:
What about the longer half shafts?


i did enquire about putting long shafts onto my herald i was told by the powers that be :-
you can fit long shafts BUT
the handbrake cable needs to be changed for a longer one
The tie rods are angled for short shafts so when long shafts are fitted they are at the wrong angle,if you bend them to the correct angle then are are too short so they would have to made a bit longer(only 1/2" or so)
if you do the swap on a spit you would just the correct tie rods but the herald was never fitted with long shafts as standared.
plus if you want to fit wide wheels(which i wanted to do at some point) then your buggered as andy has said on the above post, unless you roll the arches or somehow get loads and load of neg camber.
there was somthing else but i cant remember !

i would like to say all the above may be total crap but it sounded plausable when it was explained to me
which is why i never bothered

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994 wrote:
I run 5.5j dunlops on 185's and the clearance is about the width of a single sheet of A4


That's quite a tight fit then
I have about half the width of my little finger,but then I have a fair amount of neg chamber without it I would have thought they would not fit.
If yours do then I would presume mine would also.

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Hi Guys i asked the question a bit further back in this post about 6jx13 Cobra Superslots going on my 1200 Herald, (standard)  before i commit to buying tyres (175/70/13) i was wondering if they effect the handling,steering much? If they do will probably sell them as i love the car as it is, all original but scruffy :).

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