Tim Bancroft Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Quite a few things are wrong:1. Shocker is top mounted in the wrong position, the SA should be either located onto the std mount in the wheelarch or onto a chassis extension as sold by Triumph Tune or the TSSC. I would think at certain suspension positions the shockers will foul the roto coupling.2. Handbrake lever has had a right angle extension welded on, this is causing the handbrake clevis to foul on the roto coupling.If the wheelarch mounts do not exist, the easiest remedy would be to fit CV driveshafts. Is the body of the car def. mk2, easiest way to denote mk1 or mk2 is if the rear piller vent exists?Also have a look at the fuel pipe, looks vunerable in its present position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 Cheers Tim,Mounts for shock shoudl be OK, currently using off the shelf conversion mounts - never had an issue with them fouling roto.Am looking to convert to CV later in the year.Quite right about the right angle extension on the h/brake - never really grasped why it's there, other than the cable's too short (if so, I would have fabricated a longer yoke for the clevis pin) - it has been like this since purchase, drivers' side does not have the elbow extension (came off in an incident 5 years ago).Body is spitfire MK3 at the rear - as per pic (please excuse the wheel trial)ThanksJack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 Oh yeah - the fuel hose is a wee bit exposed - I'll give you that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Blimey, I need to check my eyesight! You have extension brackets fitted!!!Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 No worries Tim - thanks for the concern :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 MR K Everette!!, v nice looking car, shame aboot ..that.. back wheel though,hee hee hee Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 jackri wrote:.......the cable's too short (if so, I would have fabricated a longer yoke for the clevis pin)I would have bought a longer cable ! :)ps. Loverly car ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Do you have the GT6 MkII/III handbrake pivot points mounted to the back of the body up near the transmission tunnel or does you car still use the pivot points on the chassis?Nice car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Yup - taken a shufty & they are on the chassis - telling, eh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 That's why they moved them on the rotoflex cars.A CV conversion would be one option (and a good one). Alternatively fit the GT6 pivots and get a GT6 handbrake cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Cheers Richard. I think that my remporary fix will do me until I sort a CV conversion out with Nick.All the best,Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Actually, just noticed that you have a spit 2.5pi - I'm having an engine rebuilt as we speak (CP TR6 unit with triple dellortos) - I'll be using the same clutch as I have now, a 4 paddle mated to GT6 cover & Fedanza alloy flywheel. I hope to get Mr. Lindsey-Dean to sort me out with a beefier gearbox later in the year, but I'm assuming that this will still be based around the GT6 mainshaft - therefore I assume that the engine oil seal will need to accommodate the smaller OD of the shaft as opposed to a standard TR6 one...?Are there any other things I need to be aware of when transplanting (like the GT6 sump pan retaining - with some 'letting out' etc.) Totally off topic I know, but seeing as you're one who has the car...Thanks in advance.Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Yep sump needs persuading to fit a 2500, big hammer. I have a TLD GT6 box with D'Type uprated mainshaft etc.. Standard clutch (seems to hold out ok?)Oil seal not affected by gearbox, use the GT6 flywheel and spigot bearing. Mine was done with a shortnose crank (2.5 Saloon), not sure what is required for a long nose crank (if you have one?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackri Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Ah, interesting...Since replacing my 'box last year after throwing a tooth on the way back from Castle Combe, I have had a leak (engine oil) which is only upon startup when the car first moves (lubes up a presumably hardened seal with some fresh & warm oil) - as it only manifested when the car moved, I presumed also that it was a seal in the back of the engine which had been 'disturbed' when i introduced a new gearbox & shaft. Mine is a short backed crank. Thanks for the tip on the bearing - guess that sits on the end fo the shaft when mated to a GT6 gearbox. Sounds like TLD is the man to see then, as my more recent gearbox has a crunch going down to 2nd & it's less than 1500 miles old.Thanks again Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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