Nick Jones Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Freebird wrote:A CV joint conversion is the way to go if you really don't like the rotos - but they are not cheap and Mowerman fitted them to his Vitesse about 4 months before the RBRR and it took him nearly all that time to get them right. Not a 5 minute job. Those rear wheel berings are a pig to set up and changing the drive shafts means re-shimming from scratch.I'm not gonna bother!So go for the Bowler/Jones version with MGF/R100 Hub bearing etc........ no more bloody shims! (and no more rotoflexes either ;D) Should be job you only do once in any case.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Freebird wrote:The bearings would need re-shimming unless the stub shaft of the new driveshaft is exactly the same length as the one that came off the car. There is only a 2 thou tolerance on the bearing endfloat, so tim_trinda was very lucky.Glen I don't think the length of the stub axle has anything to do with it, any difference in length will be taken up by the amount that protrudes from the nut. When the nut is tightened the drive shaft is pulled in until the shoulder on the drive shaft contacts the shims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghr630 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Nick_Jones wrote:So go for the Bowler/Jones version with MGF/R100 Hub bearing etc........ no more bloody shims! (and no more rotoflexes either ;D) Should be job you only do once in any case.NickExactly! modern bearing, proper Lobro joint at the inner end and a fraction of the cost of the CC item. No brainer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 OK, I can see the advantage of the Bowler/jones version, but is there a real idiots guide. Something with a parts list etc would be handy....and dimensions. Could be handy :) and I have a while to get the bits and bobs.Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbers Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 I'd be interested to the idiots guide too if anyone has the link. But in all honesty I'd probably save up for the CV conversion from CC as it wont involved rumaging around in scrap yards or visiting engineers. I bet if you worked out the cost of putting it together yourself and using the MG hubs as mentioned it would only be 50 to 100 quid cheaper which is not a great deal in terms of effort put in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 I have now had the CC CV driveshafts fitted to my GT6 for 1 year and can thoroughly recommend them.When changing from the Roto set up to the CV shaft it is essential that the endfloat is correctly set up to the factory stds. I got CC to do this for me as they have the correct churchill tool to do this, did'nt fancy losing a wheel when the hub bolt sheared behind the nut! Seen the outcome of this after it happened to my mates Vitesse at 60mph-not good. Maintain those hubs!I cannot say that have noticed much difference when driving the car apart from the more direct feel when power is taken up, none of the rotoflex winding up feeling being present. However I reckon the old rotoflexes help reduce the strain on the UJs on cars with the system, I did the 06 RBRR from Bristol back to London on a really knackered UJ, I think the rubber coupling enabled me to finish the event.The best aspect of a CV shaft system is not having to compete against those blasted rubber bands, wheras it used to take about 1 hour to strip the rear suspension and 3 hours to re-build per side, it now takes an hour to strip and an hour to re-build. This is fantastic, the only mild problem being connecting the shaft flange to the diff flange as this has to be done in sequence as the inner CV pots take up some space. Also of course, the ability to strip down the suspension quickly and easily makes one carry out maintenance more frequently!My car has done the 10CR, an autotest and a number of track days using these shafts plus some spirited driving and I must say I am very pleased!As for the Bowler/Jones CV system, its got to be a winner owing to the taper bearing, however the machining tothe hub and the making of spacers may make it awkward to someone without the contacts or machining skills. Nick's car did the recent RBRR with no problem, might be worth having a chat with him or viewing his website? I would not fit a swing spring system to my car as I think the rear end is better located and held in place by the roto system, I am not keen on the driveshaft being used as a suspension component on a GT6. Not sure on the comment about longer travel suspension with SS systems, how come? Still each to their own.As for ARBs, I have a 1500 item fitted to my GT6, it handles really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Timbers wrote:I'd be interested to the idiots guide too if anyone has the link.There is info on Andre's site http://www.gt6.ca/josh/cv_rotoflex.html, there is also a link there to info on Nick's site. The driveshaft required is the short one from a Rover 100/Metro. No detail on machining sadly just some 'about' dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Quote:I don't think the length of the stub axle has anything to do with it, any difference in length will be taken up by the amount that protrudes from the nut. When the nut is tightened the drive shaft is pulled in until the shoulder on the drive shaft contacts the shims.I think you could well be right there - good thinking. It must have been the new wheel bearings which caused Mowerman so much grief with the shimming.Glen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkDeTriomphe Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Richard_B wrote:Someone in the Club I know has a TT 1'' ARB. But then he liked to turn his 1500 Spitfire into a go-cart. ;) :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbers Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 timbancroft61 wrote:I have now had the CC CV driveshafts fitted to my GT6 for 1 year and can thoroughly recommend them.When changing from the Roto set up to the CV shaft it is essential that the endfloat is correctly set up to the factory stds. I got CC to do this for me as they have the correct churchill tool to do this, did'nt fancy losing a wheel when the hub bolt sheared behind the nut! Seen the outcome of this after it happened to my mates Vitesse at 60mph-not good. Maintain those hubs!I cannot say that have noticed much difference when driving the car apart from the more direct feel when power is taken up, none of the rotoflex winding up feeling being present. However I reckon the old rotoflexes help reduce the strain on the UJs on cars with the system, I did the 06 RBRR from Bristol back to London on a really knackered UJ, I think the rubber coupling enabled me to finish the event.The best aspect of a CV shaft system is not having to compete against those blasted rubber bands, wheras it used to take about 1 hour to strip the rear suspension and 3 hours to re-build per side, it now takes an hour to strip and an hour to re-build. This is fantastic, the only mild problem being connecting the shaft flange to the diff flange as this has to be done in sequence as the inner CV pots take up some space. Also of course, the ability to strip down the suspension quickly and easily makes one carry out maintenance more frequently!My car has done the 10CR, an autotest and a number of track days using these shafts plus some spirited driving and I must say I am very pleased!As for the Bowler/Jones CV system, its got to be a winner owing to the taper bearing, however the machining tothe hub and the making of spacers may make it awkward to someone without the contacts or machining skills. Nick's car did the recent RBRR with no problem, might be worth having a chat with him or viewing his website? I would not fit a swing spring system to my car as I think the rear end is better located and held in place by the roto system, I am not keen on the driveshaft being used as a suspension component on a GT6. Not sure on the comment about longer travel suspension with SS systems, how come? Still each to their own.As for ARBs, I have a 1500 item fitted to my GT6, it handles really well.Thanks Tim, I think I'll take your advice and follow suite. I.e get the cv joints from CC and get them to fit them, finances allowing of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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