Jump to content

Bump stop on gt62 rotoflex


Timbers

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm going to rust cure and paint the inner wheel arches but I'm considering grinding off the old bump stops as they are no longer needed. The reason is mainly, to stop further rust behind them and also I feel hey may foul larger wheels/wider tyres. Is this just a case of grinding them off or am I creating a load of work?

Also, if you look at the top of the shock, I've loosened the main bolt as it was so long that it fouled against the body. Why do people fit things when they are clearly the wrong size?!!? The bolt is 3.5" long, shall I get a shorter bolt or add more washers?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm confused, have you discarded the rotoflex couplings-if not the shockers will hit the couplings?

Also use the chassis to jack the car up-if you deform the bodywork where you have jacked or placed a axle stand, you could damage or worse still puncture the fuel tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Timbancroft, its a standard rotoflex but adapted with a conversion bracket to take the top shock bolt off the chassis. Therefore the bump stops are redundant.

I still have the doughnuts, if thats what you mean?

And, the is jacked under the chassis, and the tyre is under the car in case the jack gives. The axle is stand was merely in temporary storage ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again, i just took this photo to check with you or anyone whether its normal for the doughnut to look mishapen like this? this car is my first experience with rotoflex and I have to say, I'm not a fan of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes, the donut is supposed to look like that....

you will like Rotoflex even less once you have to replace one ;)

you can kind of see the newly-installed donuts in this photo. Also I just put in shock relocation brackets similar to what you have

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Sunday Driver,

I've heard they're a real nightmare to replace so it may be worth looking into replacing them entirely with cv joints.

Your rebuild is coming along very nicely. Will you have it finished before teh end of the summer?

Cheers
Tim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take em off, they are completley redundant and will look ugly if anyone looks under your arches!

With regards to wheel fouling, it depends on how wide and what offset, in theory with the right offset you could use up to maybe 7" , but get it wrong and you will have trouble fitting anything over 6.....I have already been through all this on my 2500S, just bought some 7x15's from a guy in the know :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Timbers wrote:
Thanks Sunday Driver,

I've heard they're a real nightmare to replace so it may be worth looking into replacing them entirely with cv joints.

Your rebuild is coming along very nicely. Will you have it finished before teh end of the summer?

Cheers
Tim


The commercially available CV conversion from Canley's has sold out and they aren't taking any orders. Basically they have to get quite a lot of this stuff made and it's a heavy investment, involves much hassle and time. It will be done again but not for a while. The 1300 FWD CV joints are NLA and the pots they had made to take the CV joints are a right pain (machined, hardened, machined again).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1997triumph, thanks for that, I'm only planning on using 5.5 x 14" revolution wheels with 185 by 60 tyres so I shouldnt have a problem but will check the offset before purchasing. Alloys are quite low on my list of priorities just now...

Well, if anyone has done the CV & Fiesta Drive-shaft conversion I'd be really interested to get more details including the adapter plates.

So, the concensus is to cut the old bump stops off. And I'm guessing that the wheelarch is as-per a regular spit/gt6 behind that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jason wrote:


The commercially available CV conversion from Canley's has sold out and they aren't taking any orders. Basically they have to get quite a lot of this stuff made and it's a heavy investment, involves much hassle and time. It will be done again but not for a while. The 1300 FWD CV joints are NLA and the pots they had made to take the CV joints are a right pain (machined, hardened, machined again).


Not quite but close. It doesnt use 1300 FWD CV's it uses 1500 FWD ones (they are not interchangeable). There are plenty of 1500 CV's in circulation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats what I'd like to know Jason. I've emailed gt6steve but no reply yet. If they are cheaper than canleys then I'd definately get some.

Custom duty could be avoided if you had friend/family in the US to post them on to you!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Canley ones are unavailable at the moment, interestingly Dave was saying that many sets seem to have been sold to the US - weird! I guess it's a case of availability - people will buy what they can find. Steve's set looks the business, far prettier than the Canleys ones  :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They certainly do. Still, someone said earlier that they can be sourced from fiesta parts etc. I'd really like to know, because a short trip to a scrapyard and a bit of fiddling around could work out alot cheaper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...