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Unmatched wire wheels and hubs


A TR7 16V

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There's no chance to get to the nuts with the wheel on.

Also though more about the open-ended torque wrench problem and found a crows foot 11/16ths that solves some of the problem - now I need to work out a) if that causes an offset in the torque setting and b) if so whether it's big enough to matter.

Maybe the bar only needs one bit of tube to go over an 11/16ths nut and will jam between the nut, an unsplined bit of the hub adaptor, and the road. Maybe a long enough screwdriver, with the blade in the gap between nut and adaptor and the handle on the road. Not sure that's a good idea really: there's jury rigging and there's bodging.

Graham

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Yes, the tapers match  it's a standard 60° countersink, like on the original wheels.

As to the spacers: Like I said, the change in load on the bearing from a 6mm spacer is going to be about the same as going to a 1/2 inc wider wheel, which also moves the centroid of the road to wheel contact area out by about 1/4 inch. And people go to 5J5 Sprint wheels, which adds an inch to the moment on the bearing.

What I didn't like was that, with the spacer, the studs were short in the nuts. But that only showed that neither spacers nor shorter studs were needed.

Graham

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