WHICH BRAKE PADS

[Slimboyfat]

Nick_Jones wrote:

I think all 2L Vitesse have the 16P calipers so that's what yours will be.  Just possible the last Mk2s had 16PBs...... Mk3 Gt6 and TR6 certainly did.  It is stamped/cast into them somewhere - can't remember where offhand.  

16PB were being phased into production in late 1968, early 1969 so the majority of MKII Vitesses have them. This is born out by our sales split on 16P/16PB to MKII customers.

Don't forget a good proportion of GT6 MKII's will have them, and maybe the odd TR5.

Don't get caught out with what number Girling cast/stamped into them. The majority simply have 16P regardless of whether they are 16P, or 16PB, or 16PB Metric. That catches out a goodly proportion our our customers when ordering calipers for their cars.

[The Count]

hmm on the premise that ive plain type 16 calipers do mintex 1144 come in that size or do i have to get metric and drill out?

[Slimboyfat]

Mintex only available in small pad pin size as advice above.

[Nick Jones]

Slimboyfat wrote:

16PB were being phased into production in late 1968, early 1969 so the majority of MKII Vitesses have them. This is born out by our sales split on 16P/16PB to MKII customers.

Don't forget a good proportion of GT6 MKII's will have them, and maybe the odd TR5.

Don't get caught out with what number Girling cast/stamped into them. The majority simply have 16P regardless of whether they are 16P, or 16PB, or 16PB Metric. That catches out a goodly proportion our our customers when ordering calipers for their cars.

I'm educated - thank you  :).  Go by the shape of the rubber dust shields then.  16Ps are the awkward ones without the wire retaining clip.  There is another thread on here somewhere with pictures of both.  Doesn't make any difference to pads though - you'll have to drill them either way.

Nick

[Freebird]

Got mine now - a job for this afternoon and on my birthday too.

49 before anyone asks!

The pads are noticably grippier to the touch than my spare "greased cardboard" set. I expect the discs will wear more rapidly, but so what?

[Freebird]

That's another job done. I do love how easy it is to work on these cars.

I didn't need to drill out the pads either, but I did need to file down the pointy sections of the steel backing plates of the inner pads to clear the caliper mounting bracket.

Braking is improved (old pads were Lockheed) and now really shows up the worn wishbone bushes.

Apologies for the dodgy focus!

[Nick Jones]

Oh yes - I'd forgotten that little joy.  
You often have to do this - certainly on the high performance pads - I had to do both the M1144 and DS2500 like that.  Exception to the rule is Green stuff - they needed filing too - but they are not high performance  :P

Nick

[ianb]

JohnD wrote:

doc,

"Bite" is bit subjective, like the adjectives used by wine writers, esp. when you say the car stops alright.
What is it you want?

"Uprated" pads mean that they are formulated to work when they are hotter than than normal pads, so that even if stressed by heavy and frequent braking they won't fade.   Is that your style of road driving?  If not, and to be honest no one with a right mind would drive like that on todays public roads, then no point in using anything other than good quality, ordinary pads.

Friction depends entirely on the pressure between the two surfaces.    If you find that you brakes lack something, then it may mean that you are not able to exert the designed pressure on the brakes, and that an overhaul of your brakes is indicated before making significant mods.  But if you can cause the brakes to lock the wheels at moderate speed on a good surface, then your brakes'  efficiency is greater than your tyres' adhesion, and no overhaul is needed. (Do this in a safe place!)

The function of the master cylinder is rather like a lever.   A long lever can exert more pressure (as it were) than a short one, and a narrow master can do the same.   But just like the long lever, you have to move the end much further and the brake pedal travel will increase, giving you a very different 'feel' to the brakes, which you may like, or not.

But I'd say, brake overhaul  first.

John

Does the coefficient of friction and the surface area not come into the equasion somwhere?